Iga Kumihimo is kumihimo (braided cord) made mainly in Iga City, Mie Prefecture. Kumihimo are cords made by crossing many threads diagonally and braiding them together, and they are characterized by being more elastic than woven fabrics. Mainly silk thread is used, along with gold and silver thread, and the cords are braided on braiding stands such as the marudai, the square stand (角台), the 綾竹台 and the takadai. The origins of braided cords in Iga are said to go back to before the Nara period, and in early times they were made as cords for Buddhist ritual implements and for arms and armor. It developed greatly as a regional industry only after 廣澤徳三郎 brought back the techniques of Edo kumihimo in Meiji 35 (1902). Since then, Iga has become a major production center of obijime (kimono sash cords) and haori-himo (haori jacket ties), accounting for most of Japan's hand-braided kumihimo. In 1976 (Showa 51), it was designated a Traditional Craft Designated by the Minister of Economy, Trade and Industry. Today, production with braiding machines has also advanced, and products other than kimono accessories, such as key chains and accessories, are also made.
Origin
The origins of braided cords in Iga are unclear, but they are said to go back to before the Nara period. They have been made as cords for Buddhist and Shinto ritual implements such as sutra scrolls and keko (華籠: Buddhist implements that hold the flower petals scattered during memorial services), and for armor and swords. According to the Mie Prefecture Kumihimo Cooperative (三重県組紐協同組合), excavations of the 久米山 burial mounds in Iga uncovered a cord threaded through the knob of a mirror, thought to date from the 4th to 5th centuries. In the Edo period, demand for arms and armor arose in the castle town of the Todo Domain, and armor makers and others also produced kumihimo for armor.
History
With the Sword Abolishment Edict of Meiji 9 (1876), demand for arms and armor was lost, and kumihimo making in Iga declined. The turning point came in Meiji 35 (1902), when 廣澤徳三郎 learned kumihimo techniques in Tokyo and opened a thread-braiding factory in 上林, Ueno City (present-day Iga City), the founder's hometown. The cords were put to use as obijime and haori-himo, and Iga grew into the largest production center of high-grade hand-braided cords. The thriving sericulture of the area and its proximity to Kyoto, the heartland of kimono, are also said to have supported this development. It was designated a national Traditional Craft in 1976, and today production with braiding machines and the development of new products are also advancing.
Features
The appeal of Iga Kumihimo lies in the distinctive texture created as beautifully dyed silk threads cross one strand at a time. The threads are dyed in different colors by solid dyeing, tie-dyeing and gradation dyeing, and gold and silver thread and foil are also used. Because the braid crosses diagonally like the letter X, it is more elastic than woven fabric made of warp and weft. The main products are obijime and haori-himo, and many of those sold throughout Japan are made here. Some sources put its share of national production of hand-braided cords at about 90%.
Techniques
Hand braiding on the takadai
The takadai is a braiding stand used for high-grade hand-braided cords. Iga is said to account for most of Japan's production of hand-braided cords made on the takadai, and intricate cords such as obijime are created on this stand.
Marudai
A braiding stand around whose edge bobbins wound with thread hang down as the cord is braided; the finished cord extends downward through the hole in the center. It can handle everything from simple to complex braids, and is also used in the hands-on experience at 組匠の里.
The square stand, the 綾竹台 and beating in
Traditional braiding stands also include the square stand (角台), the 綾竹台 and the 内記台, which are used according to the type of braid. The square stand can braid both round and flat cords. A spatula (hera) is used to beat in and tighten the braid.
Materials Used
Production Process
- 1
Dividing the thread
The required amount of silk thread is weighed out on a scale and prepared according to the number of cords to be made.
- 2
Dyeing
The divided thread is dyed evenly in the specified colors. Shading and gradations are also expressed according to the design.
- 3
Winding and measuring
The dyed skeins are wound onto small frames with a thread-winding machine. They are then wound onto a measuring frame to prepare the length and number of threads needed for one obijime.
- 4
Twisting
The prepared threads are twisted using a twisting wheel called '八丁.'
- 5
Braiding
Using braiding stands such as the marudai, square stand and takadai, or machines, the cord is braided to match the pattern.
- 6
Finishing
Tassels are attached to the braided cord, and their threads are loosened and arranged. The cord is shaped with steam (湯のし) to complete it.
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Artisans & Workshops
組紐工房 廣澤徳三郎
A workshop that began with the first 廣澤徳三郎, who mastered Edo kumihimo techniques and opened a business in Iga in Meiji 35, sparking the development of Iga kumihimo. It runs '元祖伊賀組紐 廣澤德三郎の店' in 上野西大手町, Iga City, and accepts kumihimo experiences by reservation.
Official site →松島組紐店
A kumihimo shop in Iga City founded in 1932 (Showa 7), located along the Iga Kaido road (伊賀街道). It manufactures and wholesales Iga Kumihimo, and is said to keep about 100 colors of silk thread in stock at all times for obijime and other items.
How to Buy
- 伊賀くみひも 組匠の里
- The facility '伊賀伝統伝承館 伊賀くみひも 組匠の里' run by the Mie Prefecture Kumihimo Cooperative. The first floor has a hands-on corner and an exhibition and sales area, and the second floor has a resource room. Admission is free; closed on Mondays (except national holidays) and over the New Year holidays. About a 6-minute walk from Uenoshi Station on the Iga Railway.Where to buy →PR
- くみひも平井 (Okage Yokocho)
- A specialty shop for Iga kumihimo in Okage Yokocho, Ise City. Besides obijime, it offers small everyday items such as netsuke, phone straps, key chains and earrings. Kumihimo demonstrations are also held in the shop.Where to buy →PR
Hands-on Experiences
伊賀くみひも 組匠の里 くみひも体験
三重県伊賀市上野丸之内116-2
Visitors use a marudai to make a key chain or bracelet with 100% silk thread and gold thread. The official website lists the fee as 2,000 yen and the time required as about 40 minutes. Individuals in parties of up to 7 are accepted at any time on the first floor, while groups (up to 46 people) need to reserve in advance.
View details →組紐工房 廣澤徳三郎
三重県伊賀市上野西大手町3635-1
Kumihimo experiences require a reservation. Open from 10:00 to 17:00; as closing days are irregular, it is best to check by phone before visiting.
View details →FAQ
Q. How do kumihimo differ from woven fabrics?
A. Woven fabrics are made by crossing warp and weft threads at right angles, whereas kumihimo are braided by crossing many threads diagonally. As a result, the braid crosses like the letter X, and kumihimo are characterized by being more elastic than woven fabrics.
Q. What is Iga Kumihimo mainly used for?
A. The main products are obijime and haori-himo for kimono. In the past, cords for armor and swords were central, but after demand for arms disappeared with the Sword Abolishment Edict, its use shifted to kimono accessories and it continued to develop. Today, small everyday items such as key chains, bracelets and phone straps are also made.