Kumihimo is a traditional technique of braiding multiple strands of silk thread together into cords, said to have been introduced from the continent along with Buddhism during the Asuka and Nara periods. Ancient braided cords survive among the treasures of the Shosoin and those handed down at Horyu-ji, and Nara remains essential to the history of kumihimo — one traditional braiding technique still practiced today is even called 'Nara-gumi,' named for the braiding pattern seen on an item associated with Emperor Shomu that is preserved in the Shosoin. In the Nara period, kumihimo cords were used for Buddhist implements such as sutra scrolls and priests' robes; over time they came to be used for armor cords and tea-ceremony implements, and from the late Edo period onward, widely as obijime (sash cords) for women's kimono. Today, at the Nishinokyo workshop 'Nara Kumihimo Homi' in Nara City, the tradition of kumihimo braiding using traditional stands such as the kakudai (square stand), marudai (round stand), and takadai (high stand) is carried on through classes and hands-on programs.
Origin
The technique of kumihimo is said to have been brought to Japan from the continent along with the introduction of Buddhism during the Asuka and Nara periods. Braided cords survive among the treasures of the Shosoin and those handed down at Horyu-ji, attached to sutra scrolls and priests' robes, showing that a sophisticated braiding technique was already in use by the Nara period. Among the traditional kumihimo techniques, one still practiced today is called 'Nara-gumi,' named after the braiding pattern seen on an item associated with Emperor Shomu preserved in the Shosoin — a technique that reveals the deep connection between Nara and the art of kumihimo.
History
Kumihimo cords, first introduced in the Nara period as Buddhist implements, later came to be used for armor cords and tea-ceremony implements, developing an increasingly distinct character as a craft. From the late Edo period they also came to be used as obijime (sash cords) for women's kimono, and it is said that the craft spread more widely after kumihimo artisans who lost their livelihood under the Meiji-era sword abolishment edict turned to making obijime. In Nishinokyo, Nara City, workshops that carry on this traditional braiding technique continue to pass it down today through kumihimo classes and hands-on programs.
Features
The defining feature of kumihimo lies in the use of dedicated stands — the kakudai (square stand), marudai (round stand), and takadai (high stand) — on which multiple strands of silk thread are crossed in a regular pattern to build up a cord. The shape and pattern of the cord's cross-section differ depending on the type of stand and braiding method used, and different techniques are chosen to suit purposes ranging from obijime and haori cords to modern accessories. The result combines the tension and suppleness unique to handwork with beautiful colors and patterns that make the most of the lustrous sheen of pure silk.
Techniques
Types of Braiding
Dedicated stands such as the kakudai (square stand), marudai (round stand), and takadai (high stand) are used to cross threads and build up a cord. The shape and pattern of the cross-section differ depending on the type of stand, and different braids are used according to purpose — from obijime and haori cords to accessories.
Materials Used
Artisans & Workshops
ならくみひも鳳美
A kumihimo workshop inside 'Ganko Ittetsu Nagaya' in Nishinokyo, Nara City. It produces obijime and accessories using traditional braiding methods such as the takadai, marudai, and kakudai, and also holds beginner-friendly kumihimo classes and hands-on programs.
Official site →How to Buy
- ならくみひも鳳美
- A workshop that makes and sells pure-silk kumihimo products such as obijime and straps. It offers a range of items made using multiple techniques, including stand-braiding and loop-based methods, and visitors can browse and choose items in person through its classes and hands-on programs.Where to buy →PR
Hands-on Experiences
ならくみひも鳳美
奈良県奈良市西ノ京町215-1（がんこ一徹長屋内）
Offers two hands-on programs: a stand-braided strap-making experience for around 2,200 yen (about 30 minutes) and a pure-silk obijime-making experience from around 8,800 yen (about 2 hours). Reservations required at least one week in advance.
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