Nara-zarashi is a high-grade hemp cloth produced mainly around Nara. A reference to bleaching appears in the 1549 (Tenbun 18) entry of the 'Tamon-in Nikki,' a record from the late Muromachi period, and in 1611 (Keicho 16) Tokugawa Ieyasu ordered that bleached hemp cloth could only be sold if it carried the red 'Nanto-aratame' stamp at its edge, after which it circulated nationwide as a product favored by the shogunate. During the Kyoho era (1716-1735) it gained such renown that people said 'the finest hemp comes from Nanto,' with annual production said to have reached 300,000 to 400,000 rolls (hiki). Thread hand-spun from ramie is woven on a loom and then bleached to a pure white finish, with every step done entirely by hand, and the cloth has long been used for prestigious items such as Buddhist priests' vestments, samurai ceremonial dress (kamishimo), and tea ceremony cloths. Since the Meiji era, production has shrunk considerably as demand has changed, but long-established weaving houses founded in the Edo period still pass on the technique by hand today.
Origin
Nara's history of hemp weaving is long: a reference to bleaching appears in the 1549 (Tenbun 18) entry of the 'Tamon-in Nikki,' a record from the Sengoku period, suggesting hemp cloth was already being produced by the late Muromachi period. In 1611 (Keicho 16), by order of Tokugawa Ieyasu, it was decreed that hemp cloth bleached in Nara must bear the red 'Nanto-aratame' stamp at its edge, and cloth without this mark was banned from sale. This established Nara-zarashi's status as a quality-guaranteed specialty product under shogunate control.
History
During the Kyoho era (1716-1735), Nara-zarashi earned such renown that people said 'the finest hemp comes from Nanto,' with annual production reportedly reaching 300,000 to 400,000 rolls (hiki), making it one of Nara's leading industries. It was prized for prestigious items such as samurai ceremonial dress, priests' vestments, and tea cloths, and is said to have been used as a gift from the shogunate to feudal lords. Since the Meiji era, production has shrunk considerably due to the spread of Western clothing and competition from other regions, but hand-crafted production continues today, carried on by weaving houses including one founded in 1863 (Bunkyu 3).
Features
The defining characteristic of Nara-zarashi lies in its entirely handmade process: ramie fiber is hand-spun into thread, woven into cloth on a hand loom, and then bleached to a pure white finish. The result has the crispness and cooling feel unique to hemp combined with a supple texture; it is said not to cling even when it absorbs sweat, and to grow softer against the skin the more it is used. It was once reserved for prestigious items such as priests' vestments, ceremonial dress, and tea cloths, but today the technique also goes into everyday items such as noren curtains, dish cloths, and clothing.
Materials Used
Production Process
- 1
Thread-making
Ramie (karamushi) fiber is split into fine strands with the fingertips and twisted by hand into a continuous thread, one strand at a time. Even a skilled spinner needs about a month to produce enough even thread.
- 2
Weaving
Twisted warp threads are combined with untwisted weft threads and woven into plain cloth on a hand loom. Even a skilled weaver takes about ten days to weave one roll (hiki, roughly 24 meters).
- 3
Bleaching
The woven cloth is repeatedly sun-bleached and boiled in lye to remove impurities and pigment remaining in the fibers, bringing out its distinctive softness and brilliant pure-white color.
Artisans & Workshops
岡井麻布商店（麻布おかい）
A Nara-zarashi weaving house founded in 1863 (Bunkyu 3). It handles every step by hand, from hand-spinning ramie to hand-weaving and bleaching, with the technique passed down through generations to the current head of the house, who also creates items such as noren curtains and dish cloths suited to modern life.
Official site →How to Buy
- 麻布おかい Online Shop
- The direct-run online shop of Asafu Okai, a long-established Nara-zarashi weaving house. Hand-woven hemp dish cloths, noren curtains, clothing, and sundries can be purchased online, letting customers enjoy the crispness and suppleness unique to Nara-zarashi in daily life.Where to buy →PR
- 中川政七商店
- A long-established company that began in 1716 (Kyoho 1) selling Nara-zarashi. It now sells hemp-centered household goods nationwide through its own stores and online shop, continuing to spread the appeal of hemp as a company rooted in the origins of Nara-zarashi.Where to buy →PR
Hands-on Experiences
麻布おかい
奈良県奈良市橋本町7-1
Offers a Nara-zarashi hand-weaving experience (making a tea mat). The fee is around 1,980 yen (tax excluded) and it takes about 30 minutes. Guided by a craftsperson, visitors weave a strip of hemp cloth about 20 cm wide and take it home.
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