Koshu Oishi Tsumugi is a hand-woven silk fabric that has long been woven in the Oishi district of Fujikawaguchiko Town, Yamanashi Prefecture, and its official name in the prefectural designation is 'Koshu Oishi Tsumugi Orimono.' In this area on the northern shore of Lake Kawaguchi, everything from sericulture to thread making and weaving has been done by hand in one continuous process. The warp uses thread from honmayu (single cocoons), each spun by one silkworm, and the weft uses thread from tamamayu (double cocoons), spun jointly by two silkworms. The thread is drawn out of the cocoons by hand with a tool called a zaguri. The fabric is characterized by a texture that is strong, light and soft, with the smoothness unique to silk. For textiles of the Gunnai region, there is a record of silk being presented to the imperial court in 915. In the late Edo period, the fabric was sold widely by members of the Fuji-ko (Mt. Fuji worship groups) and by peddlers. In 1994 it was designated a Yamanashi Prefecture Designated Local Traditional Craft. At the Oishi Tsumugi Traditional Craft Museum, visitors can watch weaving and try hand weaving.
Origin
Around Lake Kawaguchi, textiles are said to have been woven for more than 1,000 years. There are various theories about their origin. One theory holds that in the reign of Empress Koken, the provincial governor 山口沙弥麿 introduced sericulture and weaving, while another holds that members of the Hata clan, who came from Baekje, settled at the foot of Mt. Fuji and weaving developed there. The oldest record of textiles in the Gunnai region states that 'silk was presented to the imperial court' in 915.
History
In 1681, during the Edo period, a petition requesting a tax reduction mentions 'tsumugi,' showing that kitsumugi (yellow pongee) was being woven. In the late Edo period, the fabric was paid in kind as tax, and it was also sold widely by members of the Fuji-ko, who worshiped Mt. Fuji, and by peddlers. At its peak, more than 250 farming households wove tsumugi, producing more than 3,400 tan (bolts) a year. After improvements in the Meiji and Taisho periods, it became the Oishi Tsumugi of today.
Features
Oishi Tsumugi is strong and light, with a soft texture. While it has the smooth glide unique to silk, it is also durable, and its feel differs from that of other tsumugi. The zaguri tool for drawing thread is turned by rotating a wheel with the right hand, a design unique to the Oishi district and rare even nationwide. Of the 19 steps in all, almost everything except thread twisting is done by hand, and even a skilled craftsman needs about two weeks to weave one tan.
Techniques
Zaguri (Hand Reeling)
A manual thread-making technique in which thread is drawn out of boiled cocoons and wound up. The zaguri reels of the Oishi district are turned by rotating a wheel with the right hand, which is said to be rare even nationwide. Thread drawn from honmayu is used for the warp, and thread drawn from tamamayu is used for the weft.
Hand Weaving with Nage-hi (Thrown Shuttle)
In weaving, the shuttle holding the weft thread is thrown by hand between the warp threads, and the reed is beaten to weave the weft in. This motion is repeated row by row to weave the cloth.
Materials Used
Production Process
- 1
Sericulture and Cocoon Selection
Silkworms are raised to spin cocoons, and cocoons suitable for thread are selected.
- 2
Boiling Cocoons and Zaguri
The cocoons are boiled, and thread is drawn out with a zaguri.
- 3
Doubling and Twisting
The drawn threads are combined and twisted.
- 4
Scouring and Dyeing
The thread is scoured and dyed.
- 5
Warping and Setting Up the Loom
The warp threads are aligned, passed through the heddles and the reed, and mounted on the loom.
- 6
Weaving and Finishing
The weft is inserted with a thrown shuttle and beaten in with the reed, and the woven cloth is finished.
| Main Production Areas |
|
|---|
Artisans & Workshops
梶原道子
An artisan who began weaving in earnest at the age of 12 and has woven Oishi Tsumugi for more than 70 years. Kajiwara long remained an active member of the hand-weaving association, and after retiring from weaving work has been involved in passing on the skills of zaguri and weaving to younger generations.
栗林茜
Kuribayashi moved to Fujikawaguchiko Town in 2018 as a Community Revitalization Cooperator and learned everything from sericulture and thread making to weaving from Ms. Kajiwara Michiko. Kuribayashi continues weaving as a trainee of the Oishi Tsumugi Hand-Weaving Association and also serves as an instructor at workshops at the Oishi Tsumugi Traditional Craft Museum.
How to Buy
- 大石紬伝統工芸館
- An Oishi Tsumugi facility in Oishi, Fujikawaguchiko Town, which sells a variety of silk products inside. Admission is free; open from 9:00 to 17:00. Fuji Oishi Hana Terrace is nearby.
Hands-on Experiences
大石紬伝統工芸館
山梨県南都留郡富士河口湖町大石1438-1
A facility opened in 1989 where visitors can watch weaving demonstrations. The hand-weaving experience, in which participants weave one table runner on a loom, costs about 7,000 yen, takes about 90 minutes and requires a reservation. Experiences such as plant dyeing and seasonal workshops are also offered.
FAQ
Q. What is the difference between honmayu and tamamayu?
A. Honmayu are ordinary cocoons, each spun by one silkworm, and in Oishi Tsumugi they are used for the warp. Tamamayu are irregularly shaped cocoons spun jointly by two silkworms. In Oishi Tsumugi, thread drawn from these tamamayu with a zaguri is used for the weft.
Q. Is Oishi Tsumugi still woven today?
A. After World War II sericulture declined, and almost no one was left who could make tsumugi with traditional tools and techniques. Even so, craftsmen and trainees of the Oishi Tsumugi Hand-Weaving Association carry on the skills. In 2018, younger people who moved to the area as Community Revitalization Cooperators also joined, and weaving continues.
Q. How are the threads of Oishi Tsumugi used?
A. Thread drawn from honmayu is used for the warp, and thread drawn from tamamayu with a zaguri is used for the weft. Weft threads include tamaito, used for kimono, and thicker zaguri thread, used for obi sashes. By choosing threads according to their use, the weavers create the distinctive texture of each.