Hamamatsu Chusen Dyeing (Hamamatsu Chusen Zome) is a type of stencil dyeing handed down in Hamamatsu City, Shizuoka Prefecture. Chusen (pour-dyeing) is a dyeing technique unique to Japan that was devised in the Meiji era. Cotton fabric on which resist paste has been applied through a stencil is placed on a table, and dye is poured from above and drawn through to the bottom to dye the cloth. The front and back of the fabric are dyed to the same depth, and the finish has a soft texture that makes use of bleeding and gradation. In Hamamatsu it began with dyeing tenugui hand towels in the Meiji 20s, and by the Taisho era yukata dyeing had become the core of the work. Blessed with abundant groundwater and river water and the dry Enshu wind, Hamamatsu has developed into a yukata-producing area ranking alongside Tokyo and Osaka. Today, besides yukata and tenugui, items such as noren curtains and tenugui for the Hamamatsu Festival are also dyed. It is a Shizuoka Prefecture Designated Local Traditional Craft, and dye works in the city continue to preserve the technique.
Origin
Chusen is a dyeing technique whose prototype is said to have emerged between the early and middle Meiji era in response to demand for yukata and tenugui. In Hamamatsu, it is said to have begun with the dyeing of tenugui in the Meiji 20s. Washing and drying the fabric are essential to chusen. Blessed with abundant groundwater and river water and the dry Enshu wind, Hamamatsu was well suited to chusen. In this environment, Hamamatsu grew into a major chusen production center.
History
In the Taisho era, yukata dyeing became the core of the work in Hamamatsu. After the Great Kanto Earthquake of Taisho 12 (1923), artisans are said to have moved to western Shizuoka Prefecture, spreading the chusen technique further. From then on, Hamamatsu developed as a center for dyeing yukata, tenugui, noren curtains and more, to the point that Tokyo, Osaka and Hamamatsu came to be named as the main chusen production centers. Today a handful of dye works in the city carry on the technique, and Hamamatsu Chusen Dyeing is a Shizuoka Prefecture Designated Local Traditional Craft.
Features
A major feature of chusen is that the front and back of the fabric are dyed with the same pattern at the same depth. Because either side can be used, it is well suited to tenugui and yukata. 'Mizu-bokashi' (water gradation), which makes use of the bleeding and blending of dyes, creates a soft, gentle look. Another advantage is that a single stencil can be used to dye the cloth in many colors. Because the dyed fabric is washed in clean water and dried in the sun, the finish is soft, gentle on the skin and highly breathable.
Techniques
Chusen (pour-dyeing)
The fabric, with paste applied through a stencil, is placed on a table called a chusen-dai, and dye is poured from above with a tool like a kettle with a narrow spout. The dye is drawn through to the underside of the fabric, so only the patterned areas are dyed, front and back at the same time.
Chugata
Hamamatsu Chusen Dyeing is a type of stencil dyeing that uses stencils of about 40 × 95 cm called chugata. Because dye is poured onto the patterned areas, multiple colors can be dyed separately with a single stencil.
Materials Used
Production Process
- 1
Paste application
Lay the stencil on the fabric and spread resist paste with a spatula.
- 2
Pour-dyeing
Place the fabric on the chusen table, pour dye from above and draw it through to the bottom.
- 3
Washing
Rinse away excess dye and paste with clean water.
- 4
Drying
Dry the washed fabric in the sun to finish it.
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Artisans & Workshops
二橋染工場
A dye works in Hamamatsu City founded in 1927 (Showa 2). It uses chusen to dye yukata, tenugui, furoshiki wrapping cloths, suteteko undershorts and more. It is also expanding into new materials, such as processing wide-width fabrics and denim.
Official site →和田染工
A dye works in 将監町, Chuo Ward, Hamamatsu City, founded in 1951 (Showa 26). It handles chusen dyeing of yukata, eba yukata, tenugui, hanten jackets and more. It also runs the tenugui brand SOSOG.
Official site →武藤染工
A dye works in Hamamatsu City founded in 1961 (Showa 36). It has two techniques, chusen and printed dyeing (nassen), and handles the dyeing of tenugui, yukata and more. It also sells products under its own brand, 染め屋 結華 -YUBANA-.
Official site →How to Buy
- SOSOG Hamamatsu Chusen Hon-zome Tenugui (和田染工)
- An online shop run by 和田染工. Chusen tenugui range from about 1,430 yen to about 2,200 yen, and the shop also carries tote bags, pouches, uchiwa fans, shirts and more. A wide range of patterns is available, including floral, geometric and striped designs.Where to buy →PR
- 二橋染工場 Online Shop
- An online shop run by 二橋染工場. Tenugui range from about 880 yen to about 1,650 yen, with patterns including Chinese zodiac designs, revived archival designs and designs depicting famous sights of Hamamatsu. It also carries yukata fabric bolts and ready-made yukata.Where to buy →PR
FAQ
Q. What is the difference between chusen tenugui and printed (nassen) tenugui?
A. In chusen, dye is poured onto the fabric and drawn through to the underside, so the dye penetrates to the core of the fabric. Both sides are dyed to the same depth, and either side can be used. Printed tenugui, on the other hand, have the pattern printed onto the surface of the fabric, so the color generally tends to be paler on the back.