Naniwa Honzome are tenugui (cotton hand towels) and yukata dyed using chusen (pour-dyeing), a technique born in Osaka around Meiji 20 (1887). Chusen is a dyeing method unique to Japan in which cloth coated with resist paste is folded and stacked in many layers, and dye is poured in from above. Because the dye penetrates to the core of the threads, the fabric is dyed in the same pattern and the same color with no distinction between front and back, and it resists fading. The soft texture of gradation (bokashi), possible only with hand dyeing, is another attraction. The fabric used is wazarashi (bleached cotton), cotton cloth bleached in Sakai, where the craft is said to have continued for 400 years. After chusen workshops in Osaka City suffered war damage in World War II, they moved to Sakai, and the 津久野 and 毛穴 areas along the 石津川 river became the main production areas. On November 20, 2019 (Reiwa 1), it was designated a Traditional Craft Designated by the Minister of Economy, Trade and Industry. 'Naniwa Honzome Yukata' and 'Naniwa Honzome Tenugui' had already been designated as Osaka Prefecture-designated Traditional Crafts before that.
Origin
According to Osaka Prefecture, Osaka in the Edo period was known nationwide as a major producer of tenugui. Around Meiji 20, chusen, in which cloth coated with resist paste is stacked and dye is poured in from above, was devised in Osaka to dye patterned tenugui in large quantities. The wazarashi fabric has been made in the 石津川 river basin in Sakai, which has natural conditions suited to growing and bleaching cotton. At the very beginning of the Edo period, weavers, bleachers and indigo dyers are said to have emerged in Sakai.
History
Chusen was eventually applied to yukata as well, and it spread nationwide after winning a prize at the National Industrial Exhibition (Naikoku Kangyo Hakurankai) in Meiji 36 (1903). Chusen workshops in Osaka City that were damaged in World War II moved to Sakai and took root in the 津久野 (Nishi Ward) and 毛穴 (Naka Ward) areas, which had been production areas for wazarashi. 'Naniwa Honzome Yukata' became an Osaka Prefecture-designated Traditional Craft in 1985 (Showa 60), and 'Naniwa Honzome Tenugui' in 2016 (Heisei 28). In 2019, it was designated a national traditional craft as 'Naniwa Honzome.'
Features
Wazarashi is cloth made by removing impurities such as starch and oils from cotton fabric and bleaching it; it is said to become softer the more it is washed and to be gentle on the skin. In chusen, banks are made with paste on cloth stacked in an accordion fold, and dye is poured inside them. Because the dye is drawn through by a pump from below, both front and back are dyed in the same pattern and the same color. Techniques such as gradation (bokashi) can produce warm hues possible only with hand dyeing. It is valued for combining suitability for mass production with the texture of handwork.
Techniques
Itaba and tsubondo
Chusen work is broadly divided into two roles. The craftsperson who lays out the pattern on the cloth with a stencil and resist paste, folding the cloth back over the stencil, is called the 'itaba,' and the craftsperson who pours dye onto the pasted cloth is called the 'tsubondo.' 北山雅啓 of 北山染工場 in Sakai is a certified traditional craftsperson (Dento Kogeishi) in the itaba division.
Making banks and pour-dyeing
Banks are made with paste on top of the pasted and stacked cloth, and dye is poured in using a tool called a 'dohin.' The dye is drawn through by a pump from below, dyeing the cloth from both front and back. Dividing areas with banks also makes it possible to express gradation and to dye different sections in different colors.
Materials Used
Production Process
- 1
Fabric inspection and rolling
The bolt of wazarashi is inspected before dyeing (fabric inspection), and the cloth is rolled and arranged in preparation for applying the paste (rolling).
- 2
Applying paste
A frame fitted with a stencil is placed on the cloth, and resist paste is applied with a spatula. This is repeated while folding the cloth back at the length of the stencil, stacking it in an accordion fold.
- 3
Making banks and chusen
Banks are made with paste on top of the stacked cloth, and dye is poured in. The dye is drawn through by a pump from below, dyeing the cloth from both front and back.
- 4
Washing and drying
Excess dye and paste are washed out of the dyed cloth with water. After dewatering, it is hung in the sun to dry.
- 5
Tailoring
Yukata are tailored from the dyed bolts. In materials from Osaka Prefecture, tailoring is listed as a process for yukata only.
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Artisans & Workshops
北山染工場
A chusen workshop in 津久野町, Nishi Ward, Sakai City. Its representative director, 北山雅啓, is a chusen craftsperson, a certified traditional craftsperson (Dento Kogeishi) in the itaba division and a Sakai City Monozukuri Meister. In addition to tenugui and yukata, the workshop makes a wide range of chusen products, including children's jinbei, parasols and eco-bags.
株式会社ナカニ
A chusen workshop in 毛穴町, Naka Ward, Sakai City, founded in 1966. In 2008, it launched the chusen tenugui brand 'にじゆら (Nijiyura).' Tenugui dyed one by one by craftspeople are sold at its directly managed stores in Osaka and Tokyo.
How to Buy
- 堺伝匠館
- 1-1-30 材木町西, Sakai Ward, Sakai City. The first floor sells Sakai traditional industry products such as chusen and wazarashi, and the second floor exhibits chusen-dyed goods and wazarashi. Open from 10:00 to 17:00; closed on the third Tuesday (the following day if it is a national holiday) and over the New Year holidays.Where to buy →PR
- Chusen Tenugui にじゆら (Nijiyura) Nakazakicho Main Store
- Green City 1F, No. 104, 4-1-7 Nakazaki-nishi, Kita Ward, Osaka City. A directly managed store for chusen tenugui made by 株式会社ナカニ of Sakai, with tenugui from around 1,760 yen. Open from 11:00 to 17:00; closed on Wednesdays and Thursdays (open on national holidays).
- Naniwa Honzome (Chusen) Exhibition
- An exhibition and sale held by Sakai City every early summer on the first floor of the main building of Sakai City Hall. In 2026, it was held from June 29 to July 3, featuring sales of tenugui and yukata as well as demonstrations of paste application and pour-dyeing. Admission is free.
Hands-on Experiences
北山染工場
大阪府堺市西区津久野町3丁5-12
According to an introduction by Nishi Ward, Sakai City, the workshop accepts factory tours at any time, and visitors can also try dyeing work with a reservation. You can see up close the site where tenugui and yukata are dyed. It is best to confirm fees and schedules in advance by phone (072-262-5707).
FAQ
Q. Why are chusen tenugui dyed the same on both sides?
A. Because dye is poured onto the cloth from above and drawn through to the core of the threads by a pump from below. In addition, the cloth is dyed from both front and back, so it shows the same pattern and the same color from either side. Unlike printing, it also resists fading.
Q. Are 'Naniwa Honzome' and 'Naniwa Honzome Yukata and Tenugui' different things?
A. They are dyed goods made with the same chusen technique. As Osaka Prefecture-designated Traditional Crafts, 'Naniwa Honzome Yukata' was designated in 1985 and 'Naniwa Honzome Tenugui' in 2016. Later, in 2019, it was designated a national traditional craft under the name 'Naniwa Honzome.'