Tokamachi Gasuri is a yarn-dyed (dyed before weaving) silk textile woven in Tokamachi City and Tsunan Town, Niigata Prefecture. Yarn-dyeing is a method in which the thread is dyed first and then woven into cloth. It inherited the techniques of traditional Echigo Chijimi (a bast-fiber textile) and was born in the mid-19th century when these techniques were applied to silk weaving. The weaver proceeds while aligning the patterns of warp and weft threads that have been partially dyed in advance, creating delicate designs that freely combine warp kasuri (ikat) and weft kasuri. Its appeal lies in the distinctive luster of silk and a calm, understated texture, and it is worn widely, from everyday kimono to stylish outing wear. Tokamachi has long been a weaving town and was known in the Edo period as a production area for Echigo Chijimi. From the Meiji period onward, it built its foundation as a silk textile production area with summer fabrics such as Tokamachi Akashi Chijimi, and from the Showa 30s (1955–1964) it also expanded into dyeing, represented by Tokamachi Yuzen. Today it is one of Japan's leading comprehensive kimono production areas, with techniques for both yarn-dyeing and piece-dyeing (dyeing after weaving), and Tokamachi Gasuri became a Traditional Craft Designated by the Minister of Economy, Trade and Industry in November 1982.
Origin
In Tokamachi, weaving tools have been found at sites dating from the middle Kofun period, and weaving has been practiced here since ancient times. In the mid-17th century, a crepe weave (chijimi) made from ramie was developed, and Echigo Chijimi, woven with a hard twist in the weft, was prized as summer clothing. It is said that in the Tenmei era (1781–1789) as many as about 200,000 tan (bolts) of Echigo Chijimi were produced each year. Tokamachi Gasuri inherited these Echigo Chijimi techniques and was born in the mid-19th century when they were applied to silk weaving.
History
At the beginning of the 19th century, sukiya-ori, a sheer weave applying Echigo Chijimi techniques to silk, was developed, and toward the end of the Edo period the shift from bast fiber to silk advanced. From around the 20th year of Meiji (1887), weaving of the summer fabric 'Tokamachi Akashi Chijimi' began, and together with white undyed silk fabric for autumn and winter, year-round silk textile production was achieved. From the latter half of the Showa 30s (the early 1960s), Yuzen dyeing also began in earnest. In November 1982, Tokamachi Gasuri and Tokamachi Akashi Chijimi were designated Traditional Crafts together.
Features
Tokamachi Gasuri is characterized by using kasuri threads for both the warp and the weft and weaving patterns by aligning them by hand. The requirements for a Traditional Craft stipulate that kasuri threads be dyed by hand using 'kubiri' (binding) or 'surikomi' (rubbing in dye). Several tools called shuttles (hi) are used, one for each colored thread, to weave complex patterns. The delicate patterns drawn by the warp and weft kasuri combine with the luster of silk to create a calm, understated texture.
Techniques
Kasuri rulers and ink marking (sumitsuke)
Based on the design, a 'warp kasuri ruler' for the warp threads and a 'weft kasuri ruler' for the weft threads are made. Following the rulers, marks are placed on the stretched-out threads to show where they will be dyed, as preparation for weaving the pattern exactly as designed.
Kubiri and surikomi
Kubiri is a method of binding parts of the thread to resist the dye, leaving undyed areas. Surikomi is a method of dyeing by rubbing dye into the marked areas; after dyeing, the thread is steamed to fix the color.
Aligning the warp and weft kasuri
The separately dyed kasuri of the warp and weft are aligned one by one by hand during weaving. Advanced weaving skill is required, and the slight irregularities unique to hand weaving give the kasuri a soft expression.
Materials Used
Production Process
- 1
Design and kasuri rulers
The kasuri design is drawn, and rulers for the warp and weft kasuri are made.
- 2
Preparing the thread
Raw silk is twisted and scoured to make thread of even strength.
- 3
Ink marking and kubiri
The thread is marked where it will be dyed, and the parts to be resisted are bound.
- 4
Dyeing
Dye is rubbed into the marked parts, and the thread is steamed to fix the color.
- 5
Weaving
The warp is set on the loom, and the cloth is woven while aligning the warp and weft kasuri.
- 6
Cloth inspection (kentan)
The finished bolt is checked for flaws and defects.
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Artisans & Workshops
渡吉織物
A weaving house belonging to the Tokamachi Textile Industry Cooperative. Run by a married couple, it produces Tokamachi Gasuri, woven while aligning the patterns of warp and weft threads that have been dyed in advance.
How to Buy
- 十日町きものまつり
- A kimono festival held every year in early May, when streets such as Honcho-dori around Tokamachi Station become pedestrian-only (the 50th festival was held on May 3, 2026). Events include a children's procession (chigo gyoretsu), Jusan Mairi (a shrine visit for 13-year-olds), a parade, and the 'Kimono de Marche.'Where to buy →PR
- 十日町織物工業協同組合
- The production area's cooperative, located in Cross 10 in Honcho, Tokamachi City. Its member companies produce Tokamachi Gasuri, Tokamachi Akashi Chijimi, furisode (long-sleeved kimono), and more, and it serves as a point of contact for inquiries about the area's products and weaving houses.Where to buy →PR
Hands-on Experiences
十日町市博物館（TOPPAKU）
新潟県十日町市西本町一丁目448番地9
Displays the nationally designated Important Tangible Folk Cultural Property 'Spinning and Weaving Tools of Echigo Chijimi and Related Materials' and introduces the history of Tokamachi's textiles. Admission is around 600 yen for adults and free for junior high school students and younger. Closed on Mondays (Mondays and Tuesdays in winter).
View details →着物の街で機織体験（髙三商店）
新潟県十日町市稲荷町2丁目70-23
A weaving experience in a workspace attached to a thread-twisting factory, where participants use a loom to weave placemats or scarves. The half-day course costs around 9,000 yen and the full-day course around 14,000 yen. Reservation required; minimum of 2 participants.
View details →FAQ
Q. What is the difference between Tokamachi Gasuri and Tokamachi Akashi Chijimi?
A. Both are Tokamachi silk textiles woven from thread that is dyed first, and they were designated Traditional Crafts together in 1982. Akashi Chijimi is a sheer, thin summer kimono fabric whose weft is given a hard twist, with shibo (fine crinkles) brought out by yumomi (kneading in hot water). Tokamachi Gasuri weaves patterns with kasuri threads in the warp and weft.