Shuri-ori is a general term for the textiles developed in Shuri, the town that flourished as the castle town of the Ryukyu Kingdom, and it comprises five techniques: hana-ori, doton-ori, tejima, hanakura-ori, and ayanunaka. Around the 14th-15th centuries, weaving techniques were cultivated through active trade with China and Southeast Asia, and in Shuri, seat of the Ryukyu royal government, weavers produced textiles of the highest refinement in both color and pattern, worn as formal attire by the royal family and the shizoku (samurai-class gentry) and presented as tribute to investiture envoys from China. Among these, hanakura-ori and doton-ori were reserved exclusively for the royal family and nobility, developing as techniques that only Shuri was permitted to weave, unlike anywhere else. The main material is silk thread, supplemented with cotton, hemp, and basho (banana fiber) thread, dyed with plant dyes such as Ryukyu indigo and fukugi (Garcinia subelliptica). Shuri-ori became a Traditional Craft designated by the Minister of Economy, Trade and Industry in 1983, and the techniques continue to be passed down today, centered on the Naha Traditional Textile Industry Cooperative.
Origin
Around the 14th-15th centuries, during the era of the Ryukyu Kingdom, weaving techniques were brought to Okinawa through trade and exchange with China and Southeast Asian countries, and developed into distinctive Ryukyu textiles shaped by the local climate and culture. In Shuri, which flourished as the castle town of the Ryukyu royal government, weavers began producing dignified, highly refined textiles worn as formal attire by the nobility and the shizoku, in which color and pattern were pursued to the utmost.
History
By the 16th-17th centuries, these textiles had established their status as high-ranking fabrics presented as tribute to investiture envoys, emissaries of the Chinese emperor, and worn as formal attire by the royal family and the shizoku. From the 18th century onward, a variety of techniques developed, including hana-ori, doton-ori, and ro-ori (leno weave). Among these, hanakura-ori and doton-ori were reserved exclusively for the royal family and nobility, and were carefully preserved as techniques that only Shuri, and no other region, was permitted to weave. Shuri-ori was designated a Traditional Craft by the Minister of Economy, Trade and Industry in 1983.
Features
Shuri-ori's greatest characteristic is that it is not the name of a single technique, but a general term for five techniques: hana-ori, doton-ori, tejima, hanakura-ori, and ayanunaka. Hana-ori uses a float-weave technique to render three-dimensional floral and geometric patterns, while hanakura-ori, which combines hana-ori and ro-ori in checkerboard or diamond patterns, is known as the most prestigious of all summer garments. Silk thread is the main material, supplemented by cotton, hemp, and basho thread, and dyeing is done with plant dyes such as Ryukyu indigo and fukugi.
Techniques
Hana-ori (Floral Weave)
A brocade-weave technique that uses float threads to render three-dimensional floral and geometric patterns. It includes several variations, such as double-sided float hana-ori, and was worn as clothing by the shizoku and higher classes.
Hanakura-ori (Floral Storehouse Weave)
The most prestigious of all Shuri-ori techniques, combining hana-ori and ro-ori (leno weave) into checkerboard or diamond patterns. It was worn as summer clothing by royal consorts and princesses.
Doton-ori
A technique in which the thread density is increased in part of a plain-weave fabric, allowing both sides of the cloth to be used. It was worn as formal court attire by men.
Tejima
A weaving method that creates ikat (kasuri) patterns using Okinawa's own teyui binding technique, in which ikat motifs are arranged within warp-and-weft stripes.
Materials Used
How to Buy
- 那覇伝統織物事業協同組合
- A cooperative that handles the manufacturing, processing, and sale of Shuri-ori, as well as training successors. It carries Shuri-ori products including kimono fabric and obi sashes. About a 7-minute walk from Shuri Station on the Yui Rail.Where to buy →PR
Hands-on Experiences
首里染織館suikara
那覇市首里当蔵町2-16
Shuri hana-ori experience (silk thread, about 60 minutes) 4,400 yen; tiga (cotton weaving) experience (cotton thread, about 2.5 hours) 18,000 yen. Reservation required.
View details →那覇市伝統工芸館
那覇市首里当蔵町
Offers an experience program for weaving items such as Shuri-ori coasters.
View details →