Nanbu Hishizashi is a sashiko stitching technique handed down mainly in Hachinohe City in Aomori Prefecture's Nanbu region, and, alongside Kogin-zashi from the Tsugaru region, is one of Aomori Prefecture's representative sashiko traditions. It is said to have begun during the Edo period, when farming women who were forbidden from wearing cotton stitched cotton thread into hemp cloth to strengthen it and guard against the cold, and it is believed to have been developed in the Nanbu region around Hachinohe roughly 200 years ago. While Kogin-zashi counts the vertical threads of the weave in odd numbers, Hishizashi is distinguished by counting even numbers as the stitching progresses, weaving elongated diamond-shaped geometric patterns known as "ume no hana" (plum blossom) and "kiji no ashi" (pheasant's foot). Today, in addition to traditional items such as aprons and table runners, the technique is applied to modern products like neckties and tapestries, with skills passed down through workshops and classes in Hachinohe City. It is also notable that Tsugaru and Nanbu, though both within Aomori Prefecture, developed distinct sashiko traditions of their own.
Origin
Nanbu Hishizashi is said to have arisen in the Edo period against the backdrop of a ban on wearing cotton in farming villages of the Nanbu domain. Farming women, who could only wear hemp cloth, devised ways to strengthen the fabric and protect themselves from harsh winter cold by stitching it repeatedly with cotton thread. This sashiko tradition is said to have taken root in the Nanbu region around Hachinohe roughly 200 years ago, developing into a technique combining practicality with beauty.
History
As cotton became easier to obtain from the Meiji era onward, the practical role of this sashiko technique faded, but the formal beauty of its diamond patterns continued to be passed down as handcraft. In recent years, workshops and classes in Hachinohe City have led efforts to preserve and spread the technique, expanding its application beyond traditional aprons and table runners to modern accessories and sundries such as neckties and tapestries.
Features
Like Kogin-zashi, it involves stitching cotton thread onto hemp cloth, but Hishizashi differs in that the vertical threads of the weave are counted in even numbers - two, four, six - as the stitching progresses, weaving elongated diamond-shaped geometric patterns known as "ume no hana" and "kiji no ashi." This is in contrast to Tsugaru's Kogin-zashi, which counts odd numbers, illustrating how distinct sashiko traditions developed in Tsugaru and Nanbu even within the same Aomori Prefecture.
Materials Used
Production Process
- 1
Cloth preparation
The distortion in the hemp fabric is corrected and the weave aligned to make it easier to stitch.
- 2
Pattern design
The pattern to be stitched, such as plum blossom or pheasant's foot, and the color scheme are decided.
- 3
Stitching
The pattern is stitched with cotton thread while counting the vertical threads of the weave in even numbers.
- 4
Finishing
The finished stitched cloth is trimmed and made up into aprons, accessories, and other items.
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Artisans & Workshops
つづれや
Opened in 2011 as a workshop and shop inside "Hacchi" (Hachinohe Portal Museum). It produces and sells tote bags, small fabric goods, and plant-dyed thread using Nanbu Hishizashi.
Official site →How to Buy
- 南部菱刺し教室 アトリエ縹
- A class and shop selling items such as a starter kit (scale pattern) for 1,000 yen and business card cases for 2,500 yen. Beginner-friendly Hishizashi kits are also available.Where to buy →PR
Hands-on Experiences
ユートリー
青森県八戸市一番町1-9-22
A tourist facility directly connected to Hachinohe Station where visitors can try Nanbu Hishizashi. Experience fee is around 1,500 yen; demonstrations can also be viewed on Thursdays, Fridays, Saturdays, and the 1st and 3rd Wednesdays from 10:00 to 13:00 (reservation required).
View details →