Kyo-kuromontsuki-zome is a Kyoto dyeing technique that dyes silk fabric a deep black and precisely dyes-out the family crest, used for black tomesode kimono worn at weddings and mourning wear worn at funerals. There are two dyeing techniques: hikizome, used for patterned fabric such as black tomesode, and shinsome (immersion dyeing), used for plain fabric such as mourning wear. Dyes such as safflower red and indigo are layered to produce a distinctive black with depth and luster, not simply a flat black. The mon-sho-uwae technique of dyeing the family crest white onto the finished fabric is also indispensable. Kyoto is said to account for over 90% of the black crested fabric produced nationwide, and it received national Traditional Craft designation in 1976.
Origin
Black dyeing has ancient origins: by the Heian period, the "sumizome" technique of soaking fabric in ink is said to have already been widely practiced. From the Muromachi to Meiji periods, mordant dyeing techniques using tannin and iron became the mainstream method of black dyeing. In the Edo period, black crested garments dyed with betel nut (binroji) were favored among samurai, valued in practical terms too because the tannin in the dye was said to strengthen the silk fabric.
History
From the Meiji Restoration onward, social demand for black crested garments as formal wear for ceremonial occasions rapidly increased, and in Kyoto techniques were refined under a division-of-labor system among specialized dye shops. Hikizome techniques unique to Kyo-kuromontsuki-zome, such as "sandokuro," which uses the plant dye logwood and develops color through oxidation, were also established during this process. It became a Traditional Craft designated by the Minister of Economy, Trade and Industry in 1976, and Kyoto continues today to handle most of the nation's production of black crested dyeing for ceremonial wear.
Features
It is characterized by using different techniques as needed: "hikizome," in which stretched fabric is dyed with a brush, for patterned fabric such as black tomesode, and "shinsome," in which the entire fabric is immersed in dye, for plain fabric such as mourning wear. In both cases, natural dyes such as safflower red and indigo are layered multiple times to produce a black with depth and luster rather than a simple flat black. The mon-sho-uwae technique of precisely rendering the family crest on the dyed fabric by hand-painting or stencil printing is also an important element supporting Kyo-kuromontsuki-zome.
Techniques
Hikizome
A technique in which stretched fabric is dyed by drawing dye across it with a brush. Used for dyeing patterned fabric such as black tomesode.
Shinsome (immersion dyeing)
A technique in which the entire fabric is immersed in a vat of dye. Used for plain black crested dyeing such as mourning wear.
Mon-sho-uwae
A finishing technique that precisely renders the family crest in white on dyed fabric, by hand-painting or by stencil printing with a crest-carved paper stencil.
Materials Used
Production Process
- 1
Base dyeing
Dyes such as safflower red and indigo are used to dye a base layer that forms the foundation for the depth of color.
- 2
Black dyeing (hikizome / shinsome)
Patterned fabric is dyed black using hikizome, while plain fabric is dyed black using shinsome.
- 3
Mon-sho-uwae
The family crest is rendered white on the dyed fabric by hand-painting or stencil printing.
- 4
Finishing
Steaming and other finishing processes are applied to adjust the texture of the fabric and complete the piece.
Artisans & Workshops
馬場染工業株式会社
A long-established black-dyeing specialty dye works in Nakagyo Ward, Kyoto City, founded in 1870. It retains the atmosphere of an old-time dye works and also runs a family-crest-dyeing experience workshop.
Official site →How to Buy
- Re-dyeing and custom orders
- Baba Dye Works accepts custom orders for black dyeing and crest application on kimono and Western clothing. Simple crest goods chosen from ready-made designs are also available, with workshop experiences starting at around 2,750 yen.
Hands-on Experiences
京都家紋体験工房（馬場染工業株式会社）
京都府京都市中京区西洞院通三条下ル柳水町75
An experience choosing from over 5,000 family crest designs and applying one to a coaster, drawstring pouch, or similar item. Takes about 20-60 minutes, fee from 2,750 yen. Reservation-only, weekdays 9:00-17:00.
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