Kiryu shibori is a shibori (tie-dyed) textile that developed in Kiryu, Gunma Prefecture, a city known as a center of silk-textile production. Kiryu has long been known as a production area skilled in dyeing, weaving, and shibori alike, and Kiryu shibori is distinguished by the way it freely combines shibori techniques with bolts of Kiryu-ori, itself a Traditional Craft. Because the shibori dyeing is applied to Kiryu-ori fabric already woven with ikat, stripe, or check patterns, the result has a unique finish that can be appreciated both as a woven textile and as a dyed textile, producing innovative, delicate works in which the three techniques of dyeing, weaving, and shibori come together as one. Because each piece of shibori is done by hand, even the same pattern takes on individual character in the finished result. On January 23, 2003, it was designated 'Kiryu Shibori' as a Gunma Prefecture Furusato Traditional Craft by the governor of Gunma Prefecture.
Origin
As a silk-textile production area with a history reaching back to the Nara period, Kiryu had long excelled in the techniques of dyeing, weaving, and shibori alike. Within that environment, the original idea of combining shibori dyeing with bolts of Kiryu-ori emerged, giving shape to 'Kiryu shibori,' which carries the character of both a woven textile and a dyed textile. Applying shibori to fabric already woven in ikat, stripe, or check patterns produces a texture different from conventional shibori dyeing.
History
The workshop that has handled Kiryu shibori within Kiryu is Izumi Orimono, a weaving house founded in 1907. Making the most of being the only weaving workshop in the city with its own dye works, it has built a system that handles everything from weaving to dyeing and shibori in an integrated operation. This effort was recognized when it was designated 'Kiryu Shibori,' a Gunma Prefecture Furusato Traditional Craft, by the governor of Gunma Prefecture on January 23, 2003.
Features
The greatest characteristic of Kiryu shibori is that it freely combines a great variety of shibori techniques with bolts of Kiryu-ori, a Traditional Craft. Because shibori dyeing is applied to fabric already woven in ikat, stripe, or check patterns, it produces a one-of-a-kind finish in which the texture of the weave and the shading of the shibori can be enjoyed at the same time. It is valued as an innovative and delicate, highly advanced work in which the three techniques of dyeing, weaving, and shibori come together as one.
Materials Used
Production Process
- 1
Shibori design creation and stencil carving
The first step, in which a design for what kind of shibori pattern to apply to the Kiryu-ori fabric is worked out, and a stencil is carved to determine where on the fabric will be bound.
- 2
Pattern stamping (e-zuri)
Using the stencil, guide marks for the shibori are printed onto the fabric. The artisan works while checking the positions to bind the thread along these lines.
- 3
Binding (shibori work)
The fabric is tightly bound with thread along the printed pattern to resist the dye. Depending on the design, the binding process may be repeated twice on the same fabric.
- 4
Dyeing and drying
The bound fabric is dipped in dye and dyed, then dried. Only the sections tightly bound with thread resist the dye and remain white, forming the pattern.
- 5
Unbinding and steaming
All the binding thread is carefully untied, after which the fabric goes through a steaming process to firmly fix the color into the cloth.
- 6
Washing, finishing, and inspection
Excess dye and paste are washed out with water to finish the fabric, and after a final inspection (kentan), it is completed into products such as pure-silk shibori kimono and obi.
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Artisans & Workshops
泉織物株式会社（泉織物有限会社）
Founded in 1907, the only weaving workshop in Kiryu with its own dye works. It was designated 'Kiryu Shibori,' a Gunma Prefecture Furusato Traditional Craft, in 2003, and production is carried out by certified traditional craft artisans.
Official site →How to Buy
- Izumi Orimono (Kiryu-ori / Kiryu Shibori)
- The directly run website of the only weaving workshop that handles Kiryu shibori. It offers pure-silk shibori kimono, formal visiting kimono (homongi), obi, shawls, and more, and inquiries and purchase consultations can be made through the official site.Where to buy →PR