Kiryu-ori is a silk textile woven mainly in Kiryu, Gunma Prefecture, and a METI-designated Traditional Craft (Japan). Its history goes back to the Nara period: the Shoku Nihongi records that in 714, a silk textile called 'ashiginu (あしぎぬ)' was presented to the imperial court. During the Edo period it developed by adopting techniques from Nishijin and the West, and received favorable treatment from the shogunate, growing into a major production center known by the saying 'Nishijin in the west, Kiryu in the east.' Its defining feature is yarn-dyed patterned weaving (Jacquard weave), in which thread is dyed before being woven, using seven techniques: Omeshi-ori, Nuki-nishiki-ori, Tate-nishiki-ori, Futsu-ori, Uki-tate-ori, Tate-gasuri-mon-ori, and Mojiri-ori. It was designated a Traditional Craft in 1977, and today, centered on the Kiryu Textile Industry Cooperative, a wide range of products continues to be made, from kimono and obi fabric to gold-brocade cloth, clothing fabric, and Japanese and Western accessories.
Origin
The history of weaving in Kiryu dates back to the Nara period. The Shoku Nihongi records that in 714, a silk textile called 'ashiginu (あしぎぬ)' was presented to the imperial court, and this is considered the origin of Kiryu-ori. Full-scale development as a production area began in the mid-18th century, when a loom called the takahata was introduced from Kyoto, greatly advancing both technique and the production system.
History
From the Edo period onward, Kiryu actively adopted weaving techniques from Nishijin and the West, establishing a manufacture-style (factory-workshop) production system ahead of other production areas. It also received favorable treatment from the shogunate, and from the early modern into the modern era it flourished to the point of being called 'Nishijin in the west, Kiryu in the east.' This long history was recognized when it was designated a METI-designated Traditional Craft (Japan) in 1977.
Features
The greatest characteristic of Kiryu-ori lies in its yarn-dyed patterned weaving (Jacquard weave), in which thread is dyed before being woven. The seven techniques required for the national designation—Omeshi-ori, Nuki-nishiki-ori, Tate-nishiki-ori, Futsu-ori, Uki-tate-ori, Tate-gasuri-mon-ori, and Mojiri-ori—each produce a different texture and pattern expression. These advanced techniques are used to weave a wide range of products, from kimono and obi fabric to gold-brocade cloth, clothing fabric, and Japanese and Western accessories.
Techniques
Omeshi-ori
A technique using omeshi-ito, thread twisted tightly on a hatcho-shiki (multi-spindle) twisting machine before weaving. The strong twist creates fine, distinctive puckering (shibo) in the thread itself, giving the finished cloth a crisp yet refined texture.
Nuki-nishiki-ori (weft brocade weave)
A yarn-dyed, pre-scoured technique that weaves patterns using eight or more colors of weft thread against a solid-colored warp. It combines plain, twill, and satin weaves to create vivid, multicolored designs.
Tate-nishiki-ori (warp brocade weave)
A yarn-dyed technique that expresses patterns by combining three or more colors of warp thread with two or more colors of weft thread. Because the design is woven by switching warp colors, it can render complex motifs with a three-dimensional look.
Tate-gasuri-mon-ori (warp-ikat patterned weave)
A yarn-dyed, pre-scoured patterned-weave technique in which an ikat (kasuri) design is first formed in the warp thread, then layered with multiple colors of weft thread to complete the pattern. It combines the soft, blurred look characteristic of kasuri with the brilliance of a patterned weave.
Uki-tate-ori (floating-warp weave)
A yarn-dyed, pre-scoured layered-warp technique that densely uses two or more colors of warp thread to weave patterns as smooth as embroidery. Floating the warp thread above the surface creates a three-dimensional expression of the design.
Mojiri-ori (leno weave)
A technique in which warp threads are twisted around one another as they interlock with the weft, leaving fine gaps in the weave. The resulting fabric is light and sheer, and is also used for summer garments.
Materials Used
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Artisans & Workshops
泉織物株式会社（泉織物有限会社）
A Kiryu weaving workshop founded in 1907. Making the most of being the only weaving workshop in the city with its own dye works, it handles everything from the production of Kiryu-ori to its own Kiryu shibori brand in a single integrated operation.
Official site →How to Buy
- Kiryu Textile Memorial Hall Sales Hall
- The sales hall on the first floor of the memorial hall, operated by the Kiryu Textile Industry Cooperative. Obi and kimono fabric run roughly ¥100,000-700,000, and clothing accessories roughly ¥5,000-50,000; items can be viewed and chosen in person.Where to buy →PR
- Kiryu Textile Industry Cooperative
- A cooperative that manages the Kiryu-ori trademark and promotes the production area. It introduces member weaving workshops and serves as a contact point for inquiries about Kiryu-ori.Where to buy →PR
Hands-on Experiences
桐生織物記念館
群馬県桐生市永楽町6-6
Admission and the weaving experience are both free, making it an easy place to drop by. The second-floor exhibition room introduces the history and production process of Kiryu-ori through videos and materials.
View details →織物参考館「紫」
群馬県桐生市東4-2-24
A facility housed in a former textile factory with a sawtooth roof. Hand-weaving experiences are available by reservation; admission is ¥700 for adults, and activities such as making a hand-woven coaster start at around ¥2,000.
View details →