Dongara-jiru is a winter specialty of the Shonai region in Yamagata Prefecture — a hearty miso-based hot pot made from Pacific cod that gather along the coast to spawn, known locally as 'kandara' (winter cod). Almost the entire fish is used, not just the flesh but also the organs, milt, skin, and bones. The word 'dongara' refers to fish bones and offal, and the name is said to derive from using the flesh and bones without waste. The dish is said to have originated as a fisherman's meal that Shonai fishermen ate on board their boats or on the beach to ward off the cold, and its defining feature is a rich, deep flavor created by dissolving the fatty cod liver into the broth. Winter cod weighing 4 kg or more, caught during the 'kan' (coldest) season from early January to early February, is considered the most delicious, and during this period Tsuruoka City and Sakata City hold 'Kandara Matsuri' (winter cod festivals) where dongara-jiru is served from large pots. Traditionally, green onion is not added, and the authentic way to finish the dish is by topping it with rock nori.
Origin
Dongara-jiru is said to have originated as a fisherman's dish that Shonai fishermen ate aboard their boats or on the beach to ward off the cold. 'Dongara' is a word for fish bones and offal, and one theory holds that the name comes from a shift in pronunciation of 'dogara' (meaning body and bones), reflecting how the dish simmers the flesh and bones of winter cod without waste.
History
Winter Pacific cod that come ashore along the Shonai coast to spawn are called 'kandara,' and bottom trawling for them has long flourished during the 'kan' period of the traditional solar calendar, from early January to early February. Passed down as a fisherman's dish, dongara-jiru eventually became established in homes and restaurants across the Shonai region, and it remains a signature dish of the Kandara Matsuri held every January in Tsuruoka City and Sakata City.
Features
The defining feature is using almost the entire winter cod, from head to tail — flesh, organs, milt, skin, and bones. In particular, dissolving the fatty liver into the miso-based broth creates a rich, deep flavor. Winter cod weighing 4 kg or more with plenty of fat is considered the most delicious, and the traditional way of eating it omits green onion, finishing instead with a topping of rock nori.
Main Ingredients
Food Culture
Every January, the Nihonkai Kandara Matsuri in Tsuruoka City and the Sakata Nihonkai Kandara Matsuri in Sakata City are held, serving dongara-jiru made by simmering chunks of seasonal winter cod. Since the flavor varies from stall to stall, visitors can enjoy comparing different versions, and each festival draws around 20,000 visitors, making it a beloved winter tradition of the Shonai region.
Famous Shops
魚亭 岡ざき
山形県鶴岡市美咲町2-46
A seafood restaurant specializing in fish and shellfish from the Shonai coast, which serves dongara-jiru (kandara-jiru) made with cod on its winter menu, priced at around 600 yen.
View details →FAQ
Q. What does 'dongara' mean?
A. It's a Shonai-region word for fish bones and offal. The dish is said to be called dongara-jiru because it simmers and eats the flesh and bones of winter cod together without any waste.
Q. How is it different from anko-nabe (monkfish hot pot), which is also popular in winter in the Shonai region?
A. Both dishes use the entire fish from head to tail, but dongara-jiru is a miso soup made by simmering only winter cod, whereas anko-nabe is a hot pot that also simmers vegetables and other ingredients alongside the fish, and it is more widely known nationwide.