Choseiden is a red-and-white rakugan confection made by the long-established Kanazawa confectioner Morihachi, counted alongside Niigata Prefecture's 'Koshi-no-yuki' and Shimane Prefecture's 'Sanka' as one of Japan's 'Three Great Confections.' It began in the early Edo period when Maeda Toshitsune, third lord of the Kaga domain, ordered the making of a confection for the Tanabata festival; the design was decided with advice from Kobori Enshu, founder of the Enshu school of tea, who is also said to have named the confection himself. Made with wasanbon sugar from Shikoku and glutinous rice flour from the Hokuriku region, it is still pressed one piece at a time in wooden molds engraved with the characters 'Choseiden' in Kobori Enshu's own hand, a traditional method preserved to this day. Once revered as a confection reserved exclusively for the Kaga domain's lord, it has a distinguished history of being presented to Emperor Gomizunoo and the Tokugawa shogunate, and today it remains beloved as a souvenir confection representative of Kanazawa.
Origin
Choseiden was created by Morishitaya Hachizaemon III, the predecessor of Morihachi, after Maeda Toshitsune, third lord of the Kaga domain, ordered the making of a rakugan confection to celebrate the Tanabata festival. The design was decided with advice from Kobori Enshu, founder of the Enshu school of tea, who is also said to have named the confection himself. The name is said to derive from a phrase in 'The Song of Everlasting Sorrow' by the Tang-dynasty poet Bai Juyi, which reads 'On the seventh day of the seventh month, in the Hall of Everlasting Life (Choseiden).'
History
The completed Choseiden was presented to Emperor Gomizunoo, and the Maeda family also frequently sent it as a gift to the Tokugawa shogunate, giving it a distinguished history as a confection of high status presented to those in power. Morihachi, founded in 1625, changed its name to 'Morihachi' in 1869 (Meiji 2), and has continued to carry on the making of this confection ever since, producing it to this day as Kanazawa's signature confection.
Features
Choseiden is a red-and-white rakugan made using wasanbon sugar from Shikoku and glutinous rice flour from the Hokuriku region. Each piece is pressed one at a time in a wooden mold engraved with the characters 'Choseiden' in Kobori Enshu's own hand, resulting in a delicate texture that melts gently in the mouth and an elegant sweetness. It is counted among Japan's Three Great Confections, all of which share the common feature of being classified as rakugan.
Main Ingredients
Food Culture
Originally revered as a confection reserved exclusively for the Kaga domain's lord, it was also used as an item presented to the imperial court and the shogunate. Today it is deeply rooted in Kanazawa life as a gift for celebrations and condolences and as a confection served at the tea ceremony.
How It Differs from Home Cooking
It is almost never made at home; it is a highly specialized wagashi confection carefully pressed one piece at a time by Morihachi's craftsmen, using a wooden mold engraved with Kobori Enshu's own design and made according to traditional methods.
Famous Shops
森八 本店
石川県金沢市大手町10-15
Founded in 1625 (Kanei 2) as the official confectioner of the Kaga domain. Open 9:00–18:00, closed only around New Year's.
FAQ
Q. What exactly does 'Japan's Three Great Confections' refer to?
A. It generally refers to three confections: 'Choseiden' by Morihachi in Kanazawa, Ishikawa Prefecture; 'Koshi-no-yuki' by Yamatoya in Nagaoka, Niigata Prefecture; and 'Sanka' by Furyudo in Matsue, Shimane Prefecture. All three are dry confections classified as rakugan.