Omi-jofu is a hemp textile woven mainly in the Koto region on the eastern shore of Lake Biwa, in what are now Aisho Town and Higashiomi City. It was designated a Traditional Craft by the Minister of Economy, Trade and Industry in 1977. The production area is said to date back to hemp weaving traditions from the Muromachi period, and in the Edo period it was distributed nationwide by Omi merchants as a luxury hemp fabric called 'Takamiya cloth,' ranked alongside Nara-zarashi and Echigo-chijimi. There are two main lines: kibira, woven using hand-spun hemp or ramie weft threads, and kasuri, woven to create ikat patterns. Both have long been prized as luxury fabrics for kimono worn in the height of summer. Thanks to hemp's characteristic crisp, cool touch and breathability, the fabric was also widely used in the modern era for mosquito netting, supporting the everyday life of the Omi region. Today the craft is carried on by a small number of certified master artisans, centered on the Omi-jofu Traditional Industry Hall in Aisho Town.
Origin
The Koto region on the eastern shore of Lake Biwa has been known as a center of hemp weaving since the Muromachi period. In the Edo period, hemp cloth gathered at Takamiya-juku, a post town on the Nakasendo (in what is now the Takamiya area of Hikone City), was distributed nationwide as 'Takamiya cloth.' Its quality rivaled that of Nara-zarashi and Echigo-chijimi, and raw hemp was sourced from Noto and Etchu through Omi merchants — the technical standard in Koto was so high that its weaving methods were, in turn, taught back to those source regions.
History
From the Meiji era onward, as machine-spun thread spread and production structures changed, the center of production shifted to what are now Aisho Town and Higashiomi City. From the Taisho to Showa eras, techniques for dyeing ikat patterns using stencils or comb-pressing developed further, and the fabric came to be handled by kimono shops nationwide as a luxury summer fabric. In 1977, kibira and kasuri were together designated a national Traditional Craft under the name 'Omi-jofu,' and today a small number of certified master artisans continue to pass on the techniques, centered on the Omi-jofu Traditional Industry Hall in Aisho Town.
Features
Omi-jofu comprises two main lines: kibira, woven on a jibata (backstrap loom) using hand-spun hemp weft threads, and kasuri, in which warp and weft threads are dyed separately to create patterns. Distinctive techniques used for patterning the kasuri include kushioshi-nassen, in which dye is pressed onto the threads with a comb, and katagami-nassen, which uses paper stencils. The fabric is known for its crisp, cool hand feel unique to hemp, along with excellent moisture absorption and breathability, making it a long-favored material for kimono worn in the height of summer.
Techniques
Kibira
A technique in which hand-spun hemp weft threads are woven on a jibata (backstrap loom). The hand-spun threads are extremely fine and must be joined without knots, aligning the fibers' direction — a painstaking, patient handcraft.
Kushioshi-nassen (comb-pressed dyeing)
A technique unique to Omi-jofu in which dye or paste is applied to the teeth of a comb and pressed rhythmically onto the warp threads to create ikat-dyed threads. It allows fine, intricate ikat patterns to be dyed efficiently.
Materials Used
Production Process
- 1
Fiber extraction and thread-spinning
Fibers taken from hemp stalks are split thinly by fingernail or tool and spun into fine thread. A patient handcraft that produces thread of even thickness without knots.
- 2
Ikat binding and dyeing
Threads or fabric are dyed in sections to create ikat patterns according to a design. Omi-jofu uses distinctive techniques such as kushioshi-nassen and katagami-nassen for this step.
- 3
Weaving
The fabric is carefully woven on a jibata (backstrap loom) or takabata (high loom), aligning the ikat pattern threads as the work proceeds.
- 4
Yumomi finishing
The finished fabric is worked by hand in hot water (yumomi) to remove wrinkles and bring out the crisp, characteristic texture of hemp.
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Artisans & Workshops
大西新之助商店（大西實）
A certified master artisan in Aisho Town who single-handedly carries out most of the Omi-jofu production process, from design to dyeing and weaving. As one of a dwindling number of practitioners, he is dedicated to passing on the technique.
Official site →How to Buy
- 近江上布伝統産業会館
- An exhibition and sales facility for Omi-jofu in Aisho Town. Bolts of fabric as well as accessories and interior goods made with Omi-jofu are available for purchase.Where to buy →PR
Hands-on Experiences
近江上布伝統産業会館
滋賀県愛知郡愛荘町愛知川32-2
Reservation required. Basic experience weaving a coaster on a jibata loom from around 2,750 yen (about 60-90 minutes); fiber-extraction experience spinning thread from raw hemp from around 2,200 yen.
View details →FAQ
Q. Are 'Omi-jofu' and 'Omi-chijimi' the same thing?
A. Both are hemp fabrics woven in the Koto region, but it is common to distinguish them: the kibira and kasuri weaves that received the Traditional Craft designation are called 'Omi-jofu,' while fabric further processed to have a crinkled texture is called 'Omi-chijimi.' Both are built on the same underlying hemp-weaving techniques.