Nagoya Yuzen is a dyed kimono textile produced mainly around Nagoya City in Aichi Prefecture. In contrast to the vivid, colorful palette of Kyo Yuzen, it is known for its subdued, tasteful tones. Its origins trace back to the 1730s in the early Edo period, when Tokugawa Muneharu, lord of the Owari domain, pursued an aggressive policy of prosperity that drew many Yuzen dyers back and forth between Kyoto, Edo, and Owari, bringing the technique to the region. After Muneharu's downfall, austerity edicts were imposed, refining the style toward restrained, monochromatic gradations. By the late Edo period, the production base for stencil-dyed 'kata-yuzen' had become established, and in the Taisho era, 'kuro-montsuki-zome' - dyeing that leaves family crests white against a black ground - was added. Today, the term Nagoya Yuzen collectively refers to three techniques: hand-painted yuzen (tegaki-yuzen), stencil yuzen (kata-yuzen), and black crest dyeing (kuro-montsuki-zome). It was designated a national Traditional Craft in 1983.
Origin
The origins of Nagoya Yuzen trace back to the 1730s in the early Edo period, when Tokugawa Muneharu, lord of the Owari domain, pursued an aggressive policy of prosperity. During this period, many craftsmen came to Owari from Kyoto and Edo, and among them were numerous Yuzen dyers, through whom the Yuzen dyeing technique was introduced to the Owari region.
History
After Muneharu's downfall, the domain enforced strict austerity policies, and showy designs gave way to restrained, monochromatic gradations that became the norm. By the late Edo period, the production base for stencil-dyed kata-yuzen had become established. In the Meiji era, new techniques introduced from Kyoto expanded production, and in the Taisho era, kuro-montsuki-zome - dyeing that leaves family crests white against a black ground - was added. In January 1983, the three cooperatives for hand-painted yuzen, stencil yuzen, and black crest dyeing merged to form the Nagoya Yuzen Kuromontsuki Cooperative Federation, and in April of the same year it was designated a national Traditional Craft.
Features
The defining feature of Nagoya Yuzen is its subdued, restrained palette built on monochromatic gradations. This sets it apart from the colorful, showy palette of Kyo Yuzen and reflects the austere, practical spirit of the Owari region. Hand-painted yuzen (tegaki-yuzen) involves sketching a design in blue-flower ink and then applying color by hand; stencil yuzen (kata-yuzen) uses a separate stencil for each color; and black crest dyeing (kuro-montsuki-zome) dyes the fabric black while leaving the family crest areas white. Each technique is passed down by specialized craftspeople.
Materials Used
Production Process
- 1
Sketching
The design is drawn on the fabric with blue-flower ink (hand-painted yuzen), or a stencil is carved (stencil yuzen).
- 2
Paste resist and coloring
Resist paste is applied along the outlines of the pattern, and color is applied within them.
- 3
Ground dyeing
The background color is dyed evenly with a brush.
- 4
Steaming and washing
The fabric is steamed to fix the colors, then washed to remove the paste and excess dye.
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Artisans & Workshops
友禅工房堀部
Founded in 1949, this Nagoya hand-painted yuzen workshop is now in its third generation. It has developed its own technique called jukousen (tree-light dyeing), and Traditional Craftsman Mitsuhisa Horibe creates not only kimono but also accessories and contemporary products.
Official site →How to Buy
- 正直屋
- A kimono shop in Nagoya City that sells and rents kimono and furisode, including Nagoya Yuzen.Where to buy →PR
Hands-on Experiences
友禅工房堀部 手描友禅教室
愛知県名古屋市西区万代町1-28
Monthly membership fee system; enrollment fee 3,000 yen; courses from around 5,000 yen per month for one session (taught by a Traditional Craftsman).
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