Murayama Oshima Tsumugi is a kasuri (ikat-patterned) silk textile that has been woven in and around Musashimurayama City, Tokyo, along with Mizuho Town and Akishima City. It traces its roots to two textile traditions: 'Murayama Kon-gasuri,' a striped cotton fabric that began around the Genroku era (1688–1704) of the Edo period, and 'Sunagawa Futoori,' a coarse silk weave made from silk thread spun from double cocoons. As demand for silk textiles grew from the mid-Meiji era onward, these two traditions merged into a silk fabric around 1920, giving birth to Murayama Oshima Tsumugi. Despite carrying 'Oshima' in its name, it is entirely distinct from Honba Oshima Tsumugi, woven on Amami Oshima island; the key difference lies in the dyeing technique used for the kasuri threads. While Amami's Honba Oshima Tsumugi achieves its intricate kasuri patterns through labor-intensive methods such as mud-dyeing with a shime-bata (binding loom), Murayama Oshima Tsumugi uses a technique called itajime dyeing, introduced from Isesaki, Gunma Prefecture, in 1919. By sandwiching threads between carved pattern boards and dyeing them under pressure, this method achieves intricately matched kasuri patterns in the warp and weft at a relatively accessible price. The fabric is prized for its smooth, light feel, with men's designs favoring understated, refined fine kasuri patterns and women's designs favoring chic patterns wearable at any age. It was designated a national Traditional Craft in 1975.
Origin
Murayama Oshima Tsumugi has two roots. One is 'Murayama Kon-gasuri,' a striped cotton textile that began around the Genroku era (1688–1704) of the Edo period; the other is 'Sunagawa Futoori,' a coarse silk weave made from silk thread spun from double cocoons. During the Bunka era (1804–1818), it developed into what was known as Murayama-gasuri, nurturing a distinctive local textile culture.
History
As demand for silk textiles grew from the mid-Meiji era onward, the itajime dyeing technique was introduced from Isesaki, Gunma Prefecture, in 1919, prompting the two traditions of Murayama Kon-gasuri and Sunagawa Futoori to merge. Around 1920, Murayama Oshima Tsumugi was established as a silk textile. It was designated a national Traditional Craft in February 1975, and a Traditional Craft Designated by the Tokyo Metropolitan Government in December 1982.
Features
The defining characteristic of Murayama Oshima Tsumugi is its distinctive itajime dyeing technique, in which kasuri threads are dyed using carved pattern boards. Whereas Amami's Honba Oshima Tsumugi produces its kasuri patterns through labor-intensive methods such as mud-dyeing with a binding loom, Murayama Oshima Tsumugi achieves intricately matched warp and weft kasuri patterns through itajime dyeing at a relatively reasonable price. The fabric is smooth and light to the touch, with men's designs favoring understated, refined fine kasuri patterns and women's designs favoring chic patterns wearable at any age.
Techniques
Itajime dyeing
A technique in which kasuri threads are sandwiched between carved pattern boards, pressed firmly together, and dyed by pouring dye between them. Because the dye follows the board's carved pattern precisely, warp and weft threads can be matched with great accuracy.
Pre-dyed plain weave
The kasuri threads dyed through itajime dyeing are used as warp and weft, carefully woven on a loom while matching the pattern. This produces intricate kasuri designs and a smooth texture.
Materials Used
Production Process
- 1
Design planning
The striped or checked kasuri pattern is decided, and the carved design for the dyeing boards is planned accordingly.
- 2
Itajime dyeing
Kasuri threads are sandwiched between carved pattern boards and pressed firmly together, then dyed by pouring dye through them.
- 3
Thread winding and warping
The dyed kasuri threads are arranged in careful order so the pattern will not shift, preparing them to be set on the loom.
- 4
Hand weaving
Warp and weft threads are woven together on the loom with painstaking precision so the pattern matches exactly.
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Artisans & Workshops
村山織物協同組合
A cooperative of Murayama Oshima Tsumugi producers located in Honmachi, Musashimurayama City. The cooperative's office is a tangible cultural property designated by the city, and its textile archive room allows free viewing of production tools and fabric rolls from various eras, with small items also available for purchase.
Official site →How to Buy
- 村山織物協同組合
- Bolts of Murayama Oshima Tsumugi and small accessories can be purchased at the producers' cooperative facility. Visitors can also view displays of itajime dyeing tools and the production process, deepening their appreciation of the traditional technique as they choose. Open weekdays 9:30 AM–4:00 PM.Where to buy →PR
Hands-on Experiences
村山織物協同組合 織物資料室
東京都武蔵村山市本町2-2-1
Closed weekends, national holidays, and the New Year period; open weekdays 9:30 AM–4:00 PM. Admission is free, and visitors can freely view production tools such as the carved boards used for itajime dyeing and looms, along with displays of fabric rolls from various eras.
View details →FAQ
Q. Are Murayama Oshima Tsumugi and Honba Oshima Tsumugi (Amami Oshima Tsumugi) the same thing?
A. Despite their similar names, they are entirely different. Honba Oshima Tsumugi from Amami Oshima is a high-end silk textile that achieves intricate kasuri patterns through methods such as mud-dyeing with a binding loom, while Murayama Oshima Tsumugi is a textile from around Musashimurayama City, Tokyo, made using a technique called itajime dyeing.
Q. What is the itajime dyeing technique?
A. It is a technique in which kasuri threads are sandwiched between carved pattern boards, pressed firmly together, and dyed by pouring dye through them. Introduced from Isesaki, Gunma Prefecture, in 1919, it is characterized by the precision with which warp and weft patterns can be matched.