Teppai (Crucian Carp with Vinegared Miso)
Teppai (Vinegared Fish and Daikon Dressed in Sweet White Miso)
Teppai is a dish of fish and vegetables dressed in sumiso (vinegared miso), handed down throughout Kagawa Prefecture. Originally, crucian carp caught in reservoirs (tameike) were cured in vinegar and dressed, together with thinly sliced daikon radish and other ingredients, in a vinegared miso made from sweet white miso. Kagawa Prefecture is known for its low rainfall and its many agricultural reservoirs. Crucian carp caught when the reservoirs are drained from autumn to winter are called 'kanbuna' (winter crucian carp) and are said to be rich in fat with little fishy smell. In farming villages where sea fish were hard to obtain, they were an important source of protein. There is a theory that the name is a corruption of 'teppo-ae,' but its origin is not clear. It is said that it was once an indispensable dish at winter guest meals, served as a snack to go with sake at community gatherings. Now that crucian carp have become hard to obtain, it is often made with sea fish such as konoshiro (gizzard shad) and mackerel.
Origin
In Kagawa Prefecture, numerous reservoirs have been built to support rice farming in a land with little rain. Teppai is said to have begun as a dish made with the crucian carp living in these reservoirs, caught when the water was drained from autumn to winter after the busy farming season had ended. According to an introduction by the Shikoku Shimbun, the background is that in farming villages where sea fish were hard to obtain, crucian carp and common carp from the reservoirs became a source of protein.
History
According to the Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries' 'Our Regional Cuisines' (Uchi no Kyodo Ryori), teppai was a dish made by men using live crucian carp in winter, when the reservoirs were drained. In the past, it was served as a snack to go with sake at gatherings such as Ise-ko (groups of people who saved money together for pilgrimages to Ise), and was indispensable at winter guest meals. It is also said to have been the main dish at a custom called 'meoi,' in which local people gathered to share sake during breaks in farm work.
Features
The fish is filleted into three pieces (sanmai oroshi), cut into thin strips, salted and then cured in vinegar. The daikon is cut into thin strips, rubbed with salt and squeezed well to remove the water. These are dressed in a vinegared miso combining white miso, sugar and vinegar, and thin green onions and chili pepper are added. Because white miso is sweet, the amount of sugar is said to be adjusted to taste. Some households use the juice of daidai (bitter orange) instead of vinegar or add aroma with yuzu peel, and the ingredients and seasoning differ by area.
Main Ingredients
Food Culture
It is a dish that has been served as a snack to go with sake at winter gatherings and guest meals. Materials on 'Sanuki Shiro Miso,' which is registered under the Geographical Indication (GI) system, also list teppai alongside Anmochi Zoni and others as Kagawa dishes that use white miso. It is said to still be made at home and to be available at restaurants in the prefecture.
FAQ
Q. Where does the name 'teppai' come from?
A. The Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries cites a theory that crucian carp were called 'teppo' (gun), which led to the name 'teppo-ae,' and this was corrupted into 'teppai.' However, 'Sanuki no Shoku,' a website introducing agricultural, livestock and fishery products of Kagawa Prefecture, says the origin is unclear, and nothing is known for certain.
Q. Is it not called teppai unless crucian carp is used?
A. It is originally a dish made with crucian carp from reservoirs, but crucian carp have become hard to obtain today. For this reason, it is said to be often made with sea fish such as konoshiro (gizzard shad), sagoshi (young sawara, or Spanish mackerel) and mackerel. A Shikoku Shimbun article also mentions examples using common carp in addition to crucian carp.