Hi-no-kabura-zuke (Pickled Red Turnip)
Hi-no-Kabura-zuke (Matsuyama Red Turnip Pickled in Bitter Orange Vinegar)
Hi-no-kabura-zuke is a local dish of the Matsuyama area, centered on Matsuyama City in Ehime Prefecture: a pickle made from hi-no-kabu (Iyo hi-kabu), a traditional vegetable. Turnips first lightly salted are then given their main pickling in sugar and daidai (bitter orange) vinegar, made from the juice of the daidai citrus. The turnips, purple on the outside and white inside, turn a vivid scarlet when soaked in the vinegar and take on a refined sweet-and-sour flavor with a citrus aroma. This color comes from a pigment in the turnip called anthocyanin reacting with the vinegar, not from coloring agents. It is said to have begun in the early Edo period, when Gamo Tadatomo, lord of the Matsuyama domain, brought Hinona turnips from Hino in Omi Province, his ancestral land. It is sung of as a local specialty in the Ehime folk song 'Iyo-bushi,' and Masaoka Shiki also wrote haiku about it. Harvesting and pickling begin in early November, and it is at its best in winter. It is an indispensable part of osechi (New Year's dishes) and is also used as a Matsuyama souvenir and as a year-end gift (oseibo).
Origin
According to materials from the Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries, it is said to have originated in the early Edo period, when Gamo Tadatomo entered Matsuyama Castle as the second lord of the domain. Tadatomo was a descendant of the Gamo clan, who had been lords of Hino Castle in Omi Province, and it is thought to have begun when he transplanted Hinona turnips from his ancestral land. Tadatomo is said to have been installed in Matsuyama in 1627 (Kan'ei 4). On the other hand, there is also a theory that in 1635 (Kan'ei 12) a retainer of Matsudaira Sadayuki, lord of the Matsuyama domain, had seeds sent from his home province of Omi, so there are several theories about its origin.
History
The turnips that were brought in are said to have been improved to suit Matsuyama's climate and natural conditions, becoming today's hi-no-kabu. Because hi-no-kabu is round while Hinona is long and slender, some view it as closer to the red turnips of Hida or Shinshu turnips. It was sung of as a Matsuyama specialty in 'Iyo-bushi' and also became one of the specialties of Dogo Onsen. Masaoka Shiki wrote the haiku '緋の蕪や膳のまわりも春景色' (Scarlet turnips — even around the meal tray, a spring scene).
Features
Hi-no-kabu is deep crimson from the skin to the stems and is also called beni-kabura (red turnip). The turnips are peeled and soaked in water overnight to remove harshness, sliced into rounds and salted for 4 to 5 days, then given their main pickling for about a week in daidai vinegar and sugar. Kabosu vinegar or yuzu vinegar is sometimes used instead of daidai vinegar. It is characterized by its sweet-and-sour flavor and crisp texture.
Main Ingredients
Food Culture
It has been pickled in each household at the end of the year and regarded as an indispensable part of osechi. There is a saying that if the scarlet color is vivid, the year will be a lucky one, and there is also a custom of rejoicing especially when the first batch of the season comes out with a bright color. A legend also says that the turnips will grow only in places from which Matsuyama Castle can be seen.
How It Differs from Home Cooking
At home, it is pickled in winter and enjoyed sliced as is, cut into thin strips and put on salads, or chopped and mixed into rice. For those who do not like sourness, adding soy sauce is said to make it milder. Demand rises at the end of the year, and packaged products are preferred for home use.
| Hi-no-kabura-zuke by 守谷漬物 | Hi-no-kabura-zuke made by 株式会社守谷漬物 in Hagyu, Niihama City. Iyo hi-kabu turnips are pickled with sugars, brewed vinegar, salt and daidai vinegar. It comes in a 120 g bag and, as a limited-time product, is also sold by mail order. It is delivered refrigerated.Where to buy →PR |
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| Hi-no-kabura-zuke by あぐり (愛亀 Group) | あぐり, an agricultural production corporation of the 愛亀 Group, took over the business of 漬新, a long-established pickle shop in Matsuyama, and makes this product. It is reported to use turnips grown without chemical fertilizers or herbicides, with most of the process done by hand rather than by machine.Where to buy →PR |
FAQ
Q. Is the vivid red color made with coloring agents?
A. No, it is not made with coloring agents. Anthocyanin, a pigment contained in the skin of hi-no-kabu, reacts with the acid of daidai vinegar and turns scarlet. The turnips, purple-skinned and white inside, gradually turn crimson all the way through as they pickle.
Q. When can I buy it?
A. Hi-no-kabu harvesting begins in early November, and pickling takes place around the same time, so it is at its best in winter. At the end of the year, demand rises for osechi and year-end gifts. Some commercial products are sold only for a limited time, so it is a good idea to check the season when looking for it.