Chizu Kakinoha Zushi (Persimmon Leaf Sushi of Chizu)
Chizu Kakinoha Zushi (Persimmon Leaf Sushi of Chizu)
Chizu kakinoha-zushi is a regional dish handed down in Chizu Town, located in the mountains of southeastern Tottori Prefecture. Thin slices of salted trout and sansho (Japanese pepper) berries are placed on vinegared rice, which is then wrapped in persimmon leaves and left for the flavors to meld. It is said to have arisen from efforts to eat fish without letting it spoil in Chizu, which lies far from the sea. The tannins contained in persimmon leaves have a preservative effect and are said to keep the salted trout from spoiling. In the past, many farmhouses had persimmon trees in their gardens, and these readily available leaves were put to use. It has been made as a feast for hare no hi (special occasions), such as Obon, festivals, New Year, and entertaining guests. Wrapping it in autumn-colored leaves adds color and gives it an autumnal charm. Because opportunities to make it at home have decreased, local residents' groups are working on its production and promotion. In contrast to Nara Prefecture's kakinoha-zushi, which often uses mackerel, the use of trout is a characteristic of Chizu's version.
Origin
Chizu Town is a town in the mountains of southeastern Tottori Prefecture. In this region far from the sea, ways to eat fish without letting it spoil were indispensable. Kakinoha-zushi is said to have arisen as a dish that prevents spoilage by wrapping salted trout in persimmon leaves. The fact that many farmhouses had persimmon trees in their gardens suggests that earlier generations knew the effect of the leaves and incorporated it into their daily lives.
History
As opportunities to make it at home declined, residents centered on farmers in the Nagi district launched the Nagi Specialty Product Development Study Group (那岐特産品開発研究会) in 1987. It is said to have been prompted by hosting athletes in private homes and making souvenirs during the 1985 Wakatori Kokutai (National Sports Festival). The group makes and sells kakinoha-zushi, kakimochi (dried rice cake crackers), and other items, and also passes on the recipes at cooking classes for elementary school students. Kakinoha-zushi has also been selected for 'Tottori Umaimon 100 Chosen by Prefectural Residents' (県民が選ぶとっとり旨いもん100).
Features
The salted trout is thinly sliced and soaked in a marinade of vinegar, sugar, and salt to let the flavors soak in. The rice is cooked with kombu and sake, and the vinegar mixture is quickly folded in to make vinegared rice. The vinegared rice is shaped by hand, topped with trout, garnished with sansho berries, and wrapped in a persimmon leaf. Packed into an ohitsu (wooden rice container) or sushi tub and weighted with a stone, it is left for several hours to about one night so that the rice and trout meld together. The sansho berries are said to bring out the flavor and whet the appetite.
Main Ingredients
Food Culture
It is a dish that has been made on hare no hi when people gather, such as Obon, festivals, New Year, and when entertaining guests. It is wrapped not only in green summer leaves but sometimes, in autumn, in autumn-colored persimmon leaves, so the colors of the season can be enjoyed. It is reported to be so popular that it sells out quickly when sold at events.
Famous Shops
古民家カフェ 和佳
鳥取県八頭郡智頭町市瀬1947(板井原集落)
A cafe in an old folk house in the Itaibara settlement, a mountain village that has continued since the Edo period; the name is read 'Nodoka.' It opened in 2020 and serves dishes made with ingredients from farms in the town in a room with an irori (sunken hearth). It is reported that from around late May to mid-October, kakinoha-zushi, a traditional food of Chizu, appears on the lunch menu.
FAQ
Q. How does it differ from Nara's kakinoha-zushi?
A. Both have in common that vinegared rice and salted fish are wrapped in persimmon leaves. Nara Prefecture's kakinoha-zushi often uses mackerel and spread as a specialty product in areas such as along the Yoshino River. Chizu's kakinoha-zushi is characterized by its use of salted trout and the addition of sansho berries.