Nanbu Kodai Katazome

Nanbu Kodai Katazome

Nanbu Kodai Katazome 1

Nanbu Kodai Katazome is a stencil-dyeing technique passed down in Morioka City. It is said to have begun in the Kan'ei era (1624-1643), when the lord of the Nanbu domain invited the dyer Ebisuya Sanemon (of the Ono family) from Kyoto to serve as the domain's official dyer, using stencils to dye kamishimo, kosode, and armor undergarments with the Nanbu family crest, the 'mukaizuru' (facing cranes), along with patterns such as small chrysanthemums, peonies, and plovers. Since then, the technique has been passed down through generations of the Ono family, and more than 300 stencils dating back to the domain era have survived to this day. The craft is characterized by its subdued indigo-based colors and the beauty of the patterns carefully dyed from a single stencil, and it is used to produce a wide range of items, from kimono fabric and obi sashes to table runners suited to modern life. The tradition continues to be preserved today at a workshop in Morioka City.

Origin

Nanbu Kodai Katazome began in the Kan'ei era (1624-1643), when the lord of the Nanbu domain invited the dyer Ebisuya Sanemon from Kyoto to serve as the domain's official dyer. Using stencils, Ebisuya dyed kamishimo, kosode, and armor undergarments in indigo with patterns including the Nanbu family crest, the 'mukaizuru' (facing cranes), as well as small chrysanthemums, peonies, and plovers, and the dye house became valued as the domain's official supplier.

History

The Ebisuya trade was carried on for generations as the Ono family, and more than 300 stencils dating back to the domain era have been preserved to this day. The family continued the dyeing business even after the Meiji Restoration, and successive heads of the family restored the old Nanbu-style patterns based on the stencils passed down over the generations, naming the result 'Nanbu Kodai Katazome.' Production continues today at Ono Sensaijo, a shop and workshop in Morioka City, carrying on the traditional stencils and techniques.

Features

The greatest appeal of Nanbu Kodai Katazome lies in its deep indigo-based colors and the intricate patterns produced from each individual stencil. More than 300 traditional stencil patterns have survived to the present, including the Nanbu family crest, the 'mukaizuru,' along with small chrysanthemums, peonies, and plovers, and they are used to create a wide range of items, from kimono fabric and obi sashes to table runners, bags, and other goods suited to modern living.

Techniques

Stencil carving

Patterns are carved into persimmon-tanned paper to make dyeing stencils. More than 300 stencils have been preserved, including designs dating back to the domain era.

Paste resist and indigo dyeing

The stencil is placed on the fabric and a resist paste is applied evenly, leaving the pasted areas undyed while the rest is dyed in indigo.

Materials Used

Cotton and hemp fabricIndigoDyeing stencilsResist paste
Main Production Areas
  • Morioka City

Artisans & Workshops

南部古代型染元 蛭子屋 小野染彩所

A dye shop in Morioka City that carries on the tradition of Ebisuya, the official dyer to the Nanbu domain. It preserves more than 300 stencils dating back to the domain era and produces kimono fabric, traditional accessories, and household goods.

Official site →

How to Buy

蛭子屋 小野染彩所 公式オンラインショップ
Offers Nanbu Kodai Katazome products such as kimono fabric, obi sashes, table runners, and bags.Where to buy →PR

Hands-on Experiences

蛭子屋 小野染彩所(盛岡小さな博物館)

岩手県盛岡市大通1丁目10-16

The second floor of the shop houses a small museum displaying stencils and materials dating back to the domain era; admission is free. No hands-on dyeing experience is offered.

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#Dyeing#Stencil dyeing#Indigo dyeing#Morioka#Dyeing stencils