Hirose Gasuri is an indigo-dyed cotton kasuri (ikat) that has been woven in Hirose Town, Yasugi City, Shimane Prefecture. Kasuri is a textile in which patterns are woven using threads that have been partially dyed in advance. It is said to have begun in Bunsei 7 (1824) when 長岡貞子 brought kasuri techniques learned in Yonago to Hirose, and it spread under the protection of the Hirose domain. Its hallmark is large designs that combine pictorial and geometric patterns in shades of a single indigo color. It reached its peak from the 30s to the 40s of the Meiji era, and annual production is said to have reached 130,000 tan (bolts of cloth). It declined after a great fire in the Taisho era, but in the Showa era a promotion association and a training center were established, and efforts to preserve the techniques and train successors continue. Along with Yumihama Gasuri and Kurayoshi Gasuri, it is one of the representative kasuri of the San'in region, and it is designated both a Shimane Prefecture Intangible Cultural Property and a Shimane Prefecture Furusato Traditional Craft.
Origin
According to Shimane Prefecture materials, Hirose Gasuri began in Bunsei 7 (1824) when 長岡貞子 learned kasuri dyeing and weaving techniques in Yonago and taught them to the women of Hirose, 長岡貞子's hometown. 長岡貞子 is said to have been the wife of a town doctor. There is also a view that it arose under the influence of Yumihama Gasuri, which was woven around Yonago. Kasuri-making spread under the protection of the Hirose domain, and many designs by 堀江友声, a painter of the domain, are said to remain.
History
After that, improvements were repeatedly made in dyeing, weaving and looms, and Hirose Gasuri reached its peak from the 30s to the 40s of the Meiji era. Annual production is said to have reached 130,000 tan. However, the facilities were destroyed in a great fire in Taisho 4 (1915), and afterward production was limited to roughly household use. In Showa 36 (1961), 広瀬絣振興会 (the Hirose Gasuri promotion association) was formed, and the following year, 1962, Hirose Gasuri was designated a Shimane Prefecture Intangible Cultural Property. According to prefectural materials, 広瀬絣伝習所 (the Hirose Gasuri training center, now 広瀬絣センター) was established in Showa 56 (1981).
Features
A major feature of Hirose Gasuri is its use of katagami (stencils) made of washi coated with kakishibu (persimmon tannin). Using stencils cut out from designs enlarged vertically, marks are made on the threads, which are then tied by hand and dyed with indigo. Many pieces have bold compositions combining pictorial and geometric patterns, and auspicious motifs such as cranes, turtles, carp and gods of fortune were also woven. The large designs were favored not only for kimono but also for items with large surfaces, such as zabuton (floor cushions), futon and noren (shop curtains). Other attractions are the rustic texture of hand weaving on a takabata (high loom) and the durability that comes from natural indigo dyeing (shoai-zome).
Techniques
Marking with stencils
A technique in which designs, enlarged vertically, are cut out of katagami made of washi coated with kakishibu, and the stencil is placed on weft threads stretched on a frame called 緯綜台 to mark the positions to be tied. Stencils can be used repeatedly, and some have been handed down over several generations.
Hand-tying and natural indigo dyeing
A technique in which the marked sections are tightly bound with hemp fiber to resist the dye and then dyed with natural indigo. The bound sections remain white and form patterns when woven. Expressing large pictorial patterns in shades of a single indigo color is the hallmark of Hirose Gasuri.
Materials Used
Production Process
- 1
Making stencils
Designs are enlarged vertically, and washi coated with kakishibu is cut out to make stencils.
- 2
Marking on the 緯綜台
Stencils are placed on threads stretched on the frame, and the positions to be tied are marked.
- 3
Tying
The marked sections are tightly bound so that the dye cannot penetrate.
- 4
Indigo dyeing
The tied threads are dyed with indigo. The tied sections remain white.
- 5
Weaving
The cloth is woven by hand on a takabata while aligning the patterns in the threads.
- 6
Finishing
The woven cloth is adjusted and finished.
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Artisans & Workshops
永田佳子（広瀬絣技術保存会）
A holder of the Shimane Prefecture Intangible Cultural Property 'Hirose Gasuri'. 永田佳子 refined the techniques under 天野圭 (永田佳子's father) and 花谷初子, and was certified as a holder in 2005 (Heisei 17). According to prefectural materials, 永田佳子 trains successors as head of the training center within 広瀬絣センター, and 広瀬絣技術保存会 (the Hirose Gasuri technique preservation society), which 永田佳子 represents, is a designated business for the prefecture's Furusato Traditional Craft.
天野紺屋
A kon'ya (an indigo dyer's workshop) at 968 Hirose, Hirose Town, Yasugi City. Shimane Prefecture materials list it as a manufacturer of Hirose Gasuri under the name of its representative, 天野尚, and it received the prefecture's Furusato Traditional Craft designation in 1982.
Official site →How to Buy
- 広瀬絣センター
- A base for passing on Hirose Gasuri techniques, where kasuri products are exhibited and sold. A travel information site introduces affordable products such as kasuri coasters from 1,000 yen. Open from 10:00 to 17:00, closed on Wednesdays; admission is free.Where to buy →PR
- Contacting the manufacturers
- The Hirose Gasuri page of Shimane Prefecture's 'しまねの伝統工芸' (Traditional Crafts of Shimane) lists the addresses and phone numbers of 天野紺屋 (0854-32-3384) and 広瀬絣技術保存会 (0854-32-3862). They serve as points of contact for products such as kimono fabric, noren and table runners.Where to buy →PR
Hands-on Experiences
広瀬絣センター 見学・藍染め体験
島根県安来市広瀬町町帳775-1
You can watch work processes such as kasuri tying and weaving. The indigo dyeing experience, which requires a reservation, takes about one hour and is introduced as costing 1,000 yen per handkerchief. More than 30 traditional looms line the building, and there is also a soba restaurant on site. It is next to 安来市立歴史資料館 (the Yasugi City history museum).
View details →FAQ
Q. How does it differ from Yumihama Gasuri and Kurayoshi Gasuri?
A. All are e-gasuri (picture kasuri) representative of the San'in region. Yumihama Gasuri has been woven on the Yumigahama Peninsula in western Tottori Prefecture, Kurayoshi Gasuri in Kurayoshi City in central Tottori Prefecture, and Hirose Gasuri in Hirose Town, Yasugi City, in eastern Shimane Prefecture. Hirose Gasuri is closely related to Yumihama Gasuri in that it is said to have begun with techniques learned in Yonago, while it is distinguished by its unique technique of using stencils coated with kakishibu and by its large designs.
Q. What does 'the large patterns of Hirose' mean?
A. Hirose Gasuri is said to have once been described as 'large patterns of Hirose, medium patterns of Bingo, small patterns of Kurume'. The phrase compares the kasuri of various regions by the size of their patterns and aptly expresses the bold, large designs of Hirose Gasuri. Large designs look especially striking on wide cloths such as futon, zabuton and noren.