Shuto is a delicacy of Kochi Prefecture made by salting bonito innards and letting them ferment and mature. Mainly the stomach and intestines are used; they are washed thoroughly, packed in salt and matured for anywhere from six months to more than a year. It is characterized by strong saltiness and the deep savory flavor that comes from fermentation. The name (written with the characters for 'sake' and 'steal') is said to come from the idea that it is so delicious it makes you want to drink sake even if you have to steal it, and a story has been handed down that it was named by Yamauchi Toyosuke, the 12th lord of the Tosa domain. It is estimated to have first been made around the Enpo era (1673–1681), when the method of making katsuobushi (dried bonito) was improved, and it is said to have a history of at least 300 years. Besides being enjoyed as a snack with sake and as an accompaniment to rice, its uses are expanding, such as pairing it with cream cheese or using it as a secret ingredient in pasta and stir-fries. In recent years, 'amakuchi' (mild) products, in which the saltiness is softened with sake, mirin and other ingredients, have also been made.
Origin
The beginnings of shuto are closely tied to katsuobushi production. According to materials from the Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries, it is estimated to have first been made around the Enpo era (1673–1681), when the method of making katsuobushi was improved, and it is said to have been eaten for at least 300 years. It is a preserved food born from the idea of salting the innards removed when processing bonito so that nothing goes to waste.
History
As for the origin of the name, a story about Yamauchi Toyosuke, the 12th lord of the Tosa domain in the late Edo period, is well known. It is said that when Toyosuke drank with shuto as an accompaniment at an inn in Tosashimizu, the sake went down so easily that he praised it as 'so delicious it makes you want to steal sake' and gave it its name. On the other hand, the name 'shuto' already appears in the Wakan Sansai Zue of 1712 (Shotoku 2), which notes that shuto from Awa was renowned. It seems best to regard Toyosuke's naming as a legend.
Features
While ordinary shiokara (salted fermented seafood) is ready in about 10 to 20 days, shuto is said to be matured for about 10 to 13 months. It is high in salt and keeps well, and some products can be stored for one year from the date of manufacture if unopened. It is traditionally made from bonito, but some manufacturers make it with other fish such as tuna and red sea bream. It is also made in Shizuoka and Kagoshima Prefectures, which are bonito-producing areas.
Main Ingredients
Food Culture
Kochi has a culture of eating bonito without wasting any part: the flesh is made into tataki and sashimi, the belly (harami) is salt-grilled, the heart is made into iritsuke (a stir-simmered dish) or salt-grilled, and the intestines are made into shuto. Shuto is enjoyed as an accompaniment to sake and is also served as an à la carte dish at restaurants. The Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries describes it as going especially well with cream cheese.
Famous Shops
得月楼
高知県高知市南はりまや町1-17-3
A ryotei (traditional Japanese restaurant) founded in 1870 (Meiji 3) that also sells its homemade shuto as a product. A Kochi local products online shop lists a 120g pack at 1,620 yen and describes it as mellow, with little saltiness. Eating it on warm rice is also recommended. Prices are subject to change.
View details →土佐料理 司 高知本店
高知県高知市はりまや町1-2-15
A long-established restaurant serving local cuisine, founded in 1917 (Taisho 6). Travel guides introduce it as a restaurant centered on bonito dishes that also serves à la carte dishes such as sashimi and shuto. You can enjoy shuto as an accompaniment to sake along with Katsuo no Tataki and shio-tataki (salt-seasoned tataki).
View details →| Shuto by 福辰 | A brand of shuto from Kochi, available in a 'karakuchi' (salty) version made by the traditional method with restrained seasoning, and an 'amakuchi' (mild) version that combines local sake, mirin and honey. The amakuchi version is described as lower in salt and matured for about 10 months. At a Kochi liquor store's online shop, the amakuchi version is 990 yen for 120g, and an assortment of three 70g packs is 2,420 yen. Prices are subject to change.Where to buy →PR |
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| Harambo Shuto by 土佐まなべ商店 | 土佐まなべ商店 (Tosa Manabe Shoten) in Kochi City makes shuto with added raw belly meat (harambo), of which only one piece can be taken from each bonito, seasoned with shio-koji (salted rice malt), junmai sake and sake lees. It also makes 'Katsuo Umami Hakko Shio' (bonito umami fermented salt), a seasoning made from shuto, which is offered as a return gift for Kochi City's furusato nozei (hometown tax donation) program.Where to buy →PR |
FAQ
Q. Who gave 'shuto' its name?
A. A widely told story says that Yamauchi Toyosuke, the 12th lord of the Tosa domain, drank sake with shuto as an accompaniment in Tosashimizu and named it, saying it made him want to drink even if he had to steal sake. However, the name 'shuto' already appears in the Wakan Sansai Zue of 1712, which predates Toyosuke's time. Who actually named it is not clear.
Q. What is the difference between shuto and ordinary shiokara?
A. Shuto is a shiokara made only from bonito innards. According to materials from the Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries, the difference is that ordinary shiokara is ready in about 10 to 20 days, whereas shuto is matured for a long time, 10 to 13 months. This long maturation produces its strong saltiness and deep savory flavor.