Yanai-jima is a striped cotton textile that has been woven in Yanai City, Yamaguchi Prefecture. It is a hand-woven cloth with vertical stripes made from cotton thread, with a soft texture and a simple warmth. In the Edo period, cotton weaving flourished in Yanai, which prospered as a merchant town on the Seto Inland Sea. Cotton whose quality was guaranteed by the Iwakuni Domain's inspection-seal system was called 'Yanai Momen' (Yanai cotton), and its name became known throughout Japan. The industry continued to thrive in the Meiji era, but declined with the spread of Western clothing and other factors, died out in the Taisho era, and Yanai-jima came to be called a 'phantom textile'. In the Heisei era, the repair of an old loom donated to the city prompted local volunteers to form the 柳井縞の会 (Yanai-jima no Kai, the Yanai-jima Association) and work to revive it. Today the association is based at やない西蔵 (Yanai Nishigura), a hands-on facility in the White Wall Townscape (Shirakabe no Machinami), and makes use of the stripes not only for kimono but also for bags and small accessories. At やない西蔵, visitors can try weaving a 10 cm square coaster on a loom.
Origin
The history of Yanai-jima goes back to the cotton weaving industry that flourished in Yanai during the Edo period. Yanai prospered as a merchant town on the coast of the Seto Inland Sea, and in the mid-Edo period the Iwakuni Domain introduced an inspection-seal system for textiles. Cotton whose quality was guaranteed by the domain's inspection seal was called 'Yanai Momen'. Besides being used for the kimono of ordinary people in Yanai, it was shipped in large quantities to Osaka and elsewhere, and its name became known throughout Japan.
History
In the Meiji era it flourished so much that it was even sung about in the 'Tetsudo Shoka' (Railway Song), but production fell with the spread of Western clothing and the nationwide decline of the textile industry. It died out in the Taisho era and became a 'phantom textile'. In 1990 (Heisei 2), an old loom that had been lying unused in a household was donated to Yanai City. Its repair prompted volunteers to form the 柳井縞の会, and they trained repeatedly in Iyo, Ehime Prefecture, and Fuchu, Hiroshima Prefecture. In 1994 (Heisei 6), the 'reborn' Yanai-jima was completed, and since 2001 (Heisei 13), weaving experiences have been offered at やない西蔵.
Features
Yanai-jima is a vertically striped textile hand-woven from cotton thread. The 柳井縞の会 is committed to traditional hand weaving and hand dyeing, and has also adopted plant dyeing (kusakizome), in which thread is dyed with familiar materials such as indigo, onion skins and hijiki seaweed. The striped patterns are also applied to modern designs and made into bags, pouches, small cases and Western-style clothing as well as kimono. The dye of Yanai-jima is also used for the red color of the Kingyo Chochin (goldfish lanterns) that brighten Yanai's summer.
Techniques
Hand weaving
A technique in which the weft threads (yoko-ito) are passed through the warp threads (tate-ito) stretched on a loom and beaten in one row at a time to make cloth. At the 柳井縞の会, members learn the technique step by step, starting with practicing stripes and progressing to completing three tan (santan, bolts) of fabric. Since 2014 (Heisei 26), a six-month course called 'Mastering Yanai-jima' (柳井縞を極める体験) has also been held.
Plant dyeing (kusakizome)
A technique in which thread is dyed in a liquid made by boiling down plants and other natural materials. Besides indigo dyeing, the 柳井縞の会 also uses onion skins and hijiki as dyes. Thread dyed with plants gathered in the city is sometimes used, and the gentle hues, which differ from material to material, give character to the stripes.
Materials Used
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Artisans & Workshops
柳井縞の会
An organization formed to revive Yanai-jima, with its office inside やない西蔵 in the White Wall Townscape. Its chairperson is 多治比輝明. According to a case study introduced by the national government, it has about 70 members, and it works with Yamaguchi Prefectural University and the prefectural Yanai Commercial and Technical High School on product development and on teaching children to weave.
Official site →How to Buy
- やない西蔵 (custom-made original Yanai-jima goods)
- A hands-on facility at 3700-8 Yanai, Yanai City, and the base of the 柳井縞の会's activities. Visitors can order Yanai-jima goods such as bags and coasters to be made for them, and the finished items are delivered to their homes about one month later. Open 9:00 to 17:00; closed on Tuesdays (the following day if Tuesday is a public holiday) and during the year-end and New Year holidays.Where to buy →PR
Hands-on Experiences
やない西蔵（柳井縞機織り体験）
山口県柳井市柳井3700-8
An experience of weaving a 10 cm square coaster on a Yanai-jima loom. It takes about 30 minutes and costs about 500 yen. You can choose a combination from six looms with different warp colors and eight colors of weft thread, and staff help with the difficult beginning and end of the weaving. Reception hours are 13:00 to 16:00 on weekdays and 12:30 to 16:00 on weekends and public holidays, and groups of five or more need to reserve in advance.
View details →やない西蔵（柳井縞でまち歩き）
山口県柳井市柳井3700-8
A plan in which you are dressed in a Yanai-jima kimono and can stroll around the White Wall Townscape. Dressing takes about 30 minutes, and the fee, including dressing, is about 5,000 yen for adults and about 2,500 yen for children. You can come empty-handed, and applications are required at least 10 days in advance.
View details →FAQ
Q. Why was Yanai-jima called a 'phantom textile'?
A. Yanai-jima, which was woven extensively from the Edo period through the Meiji era, died out in the Taisho era due to the spread of Western clothing and the decline of the textile industry. It was not woven again until the 柳井縞の会 revived it in the Heisei era, so it was called a 'phantom textile'.
Q. Can children try the weaving experience?
A. According to an article on Yamaguchi Tourism Navi (やまぐち観光ナビ), children can also take part as long as their feet reach the pedals at the base of the loom. Staff help with the beginning and end of the weaving, so even first-timers can finish a coaster in about 30 minutes.