Awa Ai (Awa indigo) refers to the indigo plants grown in the Yoshino River basin of Tokushima Prefecture, the dye called sukumo (composted indigo leaves) made by fermenting their leaves, and the indigo dyeing done with sukumo. The Yoshino River flooded frequently, but indigo could be harvested before the typhoons came, and the fertile soil carried in by the floods allowed it to be grown in the same fields year after year, so indigo farming flourished. In the Edo period, the Hachisuka clan, lords of the Tokushima domain, protected the cultivation and production of indigo, and Awa indigo came to dominate markets across Japan. It reached its peak in the Meiji era, but then declined under pressure from imported Indian indigo and synthetic dyes. Today, craftsmen called aishi (indigo masters) still make sukumo using traditional techniques, and the Yoshino River basin produces more sukumo than anywhere else in Japan. In 2019 (Reiwa 1), 'Ai no Furusato Awa' (Awa, Home of Indigo), a story shared by nine municipalities in the basin, was recognized as Japan Heritage. Visitors can try indigo dyeing at places such as Ai no Yakata (Indigo Museum) in Aizumi Town.
Origin
Indigo dyeing in Awa is said to have already been practiced around the beginning of the Tensho era, when the Miyoshi clan ruled Awa. There is also a story that Aoya Shirobei (青谷四郎兵衛), a sukumo craftsman invited from Sakai by Miyoshi Yoshikata, passed on the production method in the castle town of Shozui Castle. Another theory holds that the Awa Inbe clan used indigo as a dye in the Heian period, but this has not been confirmed.
History
The Hachisuka clan, who entered the province in 1585 (Tensho 13), encouraged the cultivation and production of indigo, and in 1615 is said to have invited indigo-farming specialists from Harima. The domain supported its finances with taxes on aishi and indigo merchants, and in the 1700s Awa indigo captured markets nationwide. In the Meiji era it reached its peak as demand for cotton grew, and in 1903 (Meiji 36) the area under cultivation reached about 15,000 hectares. After that, it declined rapidly as Indian indigo and synthetic dyes spread.
Features
Sukumo is a dye made by chopping and drying indigo leaves, then fermenting them for about 100 days while sprinkling them with water. Awa indigo dyeing preserves tennen aku hakko date (natural lye fermentation), a method in which lye from wood ash and other ingredients are added to sukumo to ferment it. Today only about 10 to 20 hectares are planted with indigo, and sukumo is made by just a handful of producers. In 1978 (Showa 53), 'Awa-ai Seizo' (Awa indigo production) was named a Selected Conservation Technique by the national government.
Techniques
Making sukumo (nesekomi and kirikaeshi)
Dried indigo leaves are piled about 1.5 meters high in a workshop called a nedoko ('bed') and sprinkled with water to start fermentation. This is called nesekomi. After that, kirikaeshi, in which the pile is sprinkled with water and turned every five days, is repeated, and the craftsman judges the state of fermentation to finish the sukumo.
Tennen aku hakko date (natural lye fermentation)
A technique in which lye from wood ash and other ingredients are added to sukumo and fermented in a vat to make the dye bath. Handed down since the Edo period, it is distinguished by making the dye bath without chemicals. Workshops such as Hon-aizome Yano Kojo in Aizumi Town dye their products with this technique.
Materials Used
Production Process
- 1
Sowing
Seeds are sown on a taian (auspicious day) chosen in early March.
- 2
Harvesting and drying
The grown indigo is harvested from June to August, and the leaves are chopped and dried.
- 3
Nesekomi
On a taian day chosen in early September, the dried leaves are piled in the nedoko and sprinkled with water to begin fermentation.
- 4
Kirikaeshi
Every five days the pile is sprinkled with water and turned, then covered with straw mats to advance fermentation.
- 5
Finished sukumo
About 100 days after harvesting, around December, the sukumo is complete.
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Artisans & Workshops
佐藤阿波藍製造所
A sukumo production site in Shimorokujo, Kamiita Town, Itano District. Its 19th-generation aishi, 佐藤昭人, was named one of the 'Contemporary Master Craftsmen' (Gendai no Meiko). Nesekomi begins every September, and aishi including 佐藤好昭 repeat kirikaeshi to finish the sukumo around December.
本藍染矢野工場
An indigo dyeing workshop in Aizumi Town, Itano District, which dyes all of its products with hon-aizome (genuine indigo dyeing) using the natural lye fermentation method handed down since the Edo period. Its dye is sukumo made by 佐藤昭人. The indigo dyers 矢野藍秀 and 藍遊 have also taught indigo dyeing. The workshop offers indigo dyeing experiences and factory tours, with prices introduced as starting from around 1,650 yen.
How to Buy
- あるでよ徳島（徳島県物産観光プラザ）
- A local products center on the first floor of the Awa Odori Kaikan at 2-20 Shinmachibashi, Tokushima City. It carries about 2,000 items, from sudachi citrus and indigo-dyed goods to Awa Odori merchandise. It is about a 10-minute walk from JR Tokushima Station and is open 9:00 to 20:00 (hours vary by season).
Hands-on Experiences
藍住町歴史館 藍の館
徳島県板野郡藍住町徳命前須西172
The residence of the Okumura family of indigo merchants, built in 1808 (Bunka 5), together with a museum, where you can learn about indigo from cultivation to distribution. Indigo dyeing experiences are offered at any time from 9:00 to 12:00 and 13:00 to 15:30, with handkerchiefs from around 1,000 yen. Admission is 300 yen for adults; closed on Tuesdays (open on national holidays).
View details →FAQ
Q. What is sukumo?
A. It is an indigo dye made by drying indigo leaves and fermenting them for about 100 days while sprinkling them with water. In kanji it is written 蒅. Craftsmen who make sukumo are called aishi, and the Yoshino River basin still produces more sukumo than anywhere else in Japan.
Q. What is the Japan Heritage 'Ai no Furusato Awa'?
A. It is a story recognized as Japan Heritage by the Agency for Cultural Affairs in May 2019 (Reiwa 1). Nine municipalities in the Yoshino River basin, including Tokushima City and Aizumi Town, applied jointly. It is made up of cultural properties that convey the prosperity of Awa indigo, such as indigo merchants' residences and the townscape of Wakimachi with its udatsu (raised firewalls).