Katsuura no Nama Maguro (Never-Frozen Tuna of Katsuura)
Katsuura no Nama Maguro (Never-Frozen Tuna of Katsuura)
Katsuura no nama maguro refers to tuna landed at Katsuura Fishing Port in Nachikatsuura Town, Wakayama Prefecture, that has never once been frozen. 'Nama' here does not mean eaten raw as sashimi, but that the tuna has not been frozen. Katsuura Fishing Port lies at the heart of Katsuura Onsen, about a 3-minute walk from JR Kii-Katsuura Station. According to Nachikatsuura Town, its landings of fresh tuna caught by longline fishing are said to be the largest in Japan. A distinguishing feature is that tuna caught in relatively nearby fishing grounds is brought back chilled in ice water rather than frozen. About 60 percent of the landings are albacore, and bigeye and yellowfin tuna are also landed. Every morning except Saturdays and some other days, rows of fresh tuna are laid out at the port market and auctioned. At eateries in the town, you can enjoy fresh, never-frozen tuna (nama maguro) with a springy, chewy texture as sashimi, set meals, or rice bowls.
Origin
The Kumano Sea off Nachikatsuura Town is a sea where fish with firm flesh, toughened by the Kuroshio Current, are caught in abundance. The Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries' 'Uchi no Kyodo Ryori' (Our Local Cuisine) also notes that the traditional practice of tuna longline fishing still continues in Nachikatsuura Town. Longline fishing is a method in which many branch lines are attached to a long main line, and tuna are caught one at a time on the hooks at their ends.
History
According to a Wakayama Prefecture public relations magazine, it was in the Showa 50s (1975–1984) that Katsuura Fishing Port restricted the vessels entering port to longline fishing boats. Until then, there had been no restrictions on fishing boats or fishing methods. However, because tuna caught in fishing grounds relatively close to the port did not need to be frozen, 'nama maguro' from longline fishing came to attract attention. At the port, an intermediate wholesaler said to have been in business for 100 years also operates, carrying on the skill of judging fish quality.
Features
In longline fishing, each tuna is killed by ikejime on board immediately after being landed and chilled in ice water to keep it fresh. Because the fish are caught one at a time, the tuna are less stressed, and 'miyake' (meat burn), in which the flesh deteriorates as body temperature rises, is said to be less common. Since the tuna does not go through freezing and thawing, the moisture carrying its umami (drip) is less likely to seep out, and you can enjoy a springy, chewy texture. It is also a sustainable fishing method that catches only the target fish.
Main Ingredients
Food Culture
At the Katsuura Fishing Port market, you can watch the early-morning auction where freshly landed nama maguro is lined up. There are also guided auction-viewing tours run by the local tourism organization, 那智勝浦観光機構. Albacore, which accounts for about 60 percent of the landings, has been branded under the name 'Sakura Bincho' for its pale pink flesh.
Famous Shops
まぐろ料理 竹原
和歌山県東牟婁郡那智勝浦町築地4-3-23
A restaurant that serves nama maguro bought directly from fishers as boldly thick-cut sashimi. Its signature tuna set meal, an assortment of toro (fatty tuna) and akami (lean red meat), is about 1,650 yen. Dishes using tuna innards, such as the stomach, are also popular.
桂城
和歌山県東牟婁郡那智勝浦町勝浦398-11
A restaurant about a 5-minute walk from JR Kii-Katsuura Station. The owner, who knows tuna inside and out, serves the tastiest tuna of the season as sashimi, salt-grilled kama (collar), teppanyaki, and more. The tuna set meal is about 1,800 yen, and the salt-grilled kama is from about 1,000 yen.
勝浦漁港にぎわい市場
和歌山県東牟婁郡那智勝浦町築地7-12
A facility adjacent to Katsuura Fishing Port with food booths where you can enjoy nama maguro on the spot and a section selling souvenirs. Tuna-cutting shows are also held. It is open from 8:00 to 16:00 (food service until 15:30) and closed on Tuesdays.
FAQ
Q. How is 'nama maguro' different from frozen tuna?
A. Nama maguro is tuna that has never been frozen since it was caught. In Katsuura, longline fishing is carried out in fishing grounds relatively close to the port, and the tuna is brought back chilled in ice water without being frozen. Because there is no drip released during thawing, its umami and springy, chewy texture are said to be preserved.